Chiloé, Chile: Appreciating Ancud, the Low-Key, Laid-Back City on the Isla Grande de Chiloé

Fishing Boat in Ancud, Chiloé, Chile

Current Situation in Chiloé

As I write this post, the island of Chiloé is in the midst of an ecological crisis. Chiloé is an archipelago of islands located off the coast of Chile, separated from the mainland by a relatively thin strait, the Canal Chacao. Chiloé is connected to the rest of Chile by ferries that cross the canal at surprisingly slow speeds. Its main industries are agriculture and fishing, both commercial and artisanal, with a slow but steady increase in tourist interest in the islands. This means that the vast majority of the people of Chiloé live off the land and the sea. Chiloé is not a rich island, and due to the low minimum wages in Chile, its residents only just manage to eke out a living. (For reference, minimum wage in Chile is currently $250000CLP per month, or about $365 USD.)

Right now, Chiloé is suffering because of the red tide, or marea roja, an unpredictable “bloom” of red algae that can kill fish, shellfish, birds,and other ocean life and cause illness in humans. (Sources: 1, 2.) This year, the algae outbreak is especially high, basically bringing Chiloé’s main industry to a complete halt. The Chilotes (the people of Chiloé) say that this particularly high bloom may have been caused by dumping of antibiotic-laded dead salmon into the ocean waters relatively near Ancud, although El Niño also plays a factor. (Information in English here, here, and here. The last link especially explains the distrust of the government and the salmon industry.)

Mural in Ancud: Nuestra isla no se vende se defiende – “Our island is not for sale, we must defend it”

Because of the prohibition on fishing due to potential illness, the island of Chiloé is suffering a major financial crisis. The government initially offered $100000CLP, or about $150 USD, per family to help them get through the crisis, a low amount which caused outrage among Chilotes. Protests have escalated throughout the region – fishermen blocked the major highways leading to Chiloé, isolating the island from the mainland; meanwhile, additional solidarity protests have occurred throughout the country. As a result, the Chilean government is working towards a solution, increasing the amount of financial support provided to families affected by the fishing ban, as well as appointing a new regional coordinator, who has signed agreements with different comunas (or counties) of Chiloé to end the roadblocks and protests.

This situation is much more complex than I understand or can state here. There are rumors of secret deals with the salmon fishing industry; there is a history of government neglect of the island of Chiloé for generations. But everything that is happening now is in line with what I was told by the Chilotes themselves during my visit back in January. Geographically and financially isolated from mainland Chile, Chilotes have developed their own culture and their own way of life. As this article states, Chiloé is not a financial powerhouse, but its culture factors strongly in how the Chilean nation sees itself.

The people of Chiloé dream of an improved quality of life for themselves and especially their children, They want to earn a more sustainable living wage. They want support from their government to connect it with the mainland; they want the much promised bridge over the canal rather than an expensive, slow ferry. And to an outsider like myself, that’s the root of the protests: Chiloé matters. The Chilotes matter. And what happens to the ocean surrounding the archipelago absolutely matters too.

Views of Ancud, Chiloé, Chile

I visited Chiloé because of the picture that was always painted for me in guidebooks, when talking to Chileans from other regions, and in photo essays online. Chiloé is a mystical island which is almost a world apart from the rest of Chile, with its own unique culture and history. After my short visit, I definitely deepened my understanding of the region, but I only scratched the surface of the island’s unique character.

I hope my next few posts encourage you to visit the region, which needs visitors investing their money into tourism, especially if the fishing industry remains paralyzed for a while. My trip to Chiloé started in Ancud, the fishing port and and first major city on the Isla Grande de Chiloé.

Fair warning: This post is LONG and filled with photos! I wanted to do Ancud justice – most people only pass through briefly en route to the penguin colony in Puñihuil or on their way to Castro. Ancud is awesome and my goal with this post is to encourage you to spend more time there!

Crossing the Canal Chacao

Ferry Crossing on the Canal Chacao Between Puerto Montt and Chiloé

As I’ve mentioned in other posts, visiting Chiloé was a travel dream come true. After thoroughly enjoying my explorations around Pucón and Puerto Varas, I was excited to get on the ferry to cross over to the island of Chiloé on January 1, just a few short months ago.

Cars on the Ferry to Ancud from Puerto Montt

After celebrating New Year’s Eve until the wee hours with an international cast of characters from the hostel in Puerto Varas, my new friend Marilene and I boarded our bus to Chiloé, sneaking moments to sleep when we could. When the bus boarded the ferry, we all filed off the bus and headed to the open air levels of the ferry to take a look at the views.

Chile’s Mountains as Seen from the Canal Chacao

Like my fellow tourists, I was excited to see the expanses of blue all around us. After so much bus travel, there is something special about crossing the Canal Chacao on a boat and being able to appreciate the snow-covered mountains and volcanoes off in the distance.

Seabirds over the Canal Chacao, near Chiloé

Besides the mountains, the marine life surrounds you as you cross the channel, with lots of seabirds following the fish…

Sea Lions in the Canal Chacao, near Chiloé

…and even sea lions making an appearance and swimming alongside the boat on my return trip a few days later. The trip on the ferry takes about 30 minutes, enough time to stretch your legs before boarding the bus once again for the trip to Ancud and the rest of the island.

Exploring Ancud

As I mentioned earlier, we arrived to Ancud on New Year’s Day, a national holiday, so the city was even quieter than usual. This gave me a chance to really take in Ancud’s atmosphere and laid back vibe. Although Ancud is a small city, the first thing I noticed upon arrival is how hilly it is, with colorful wooden houses built into gentle slopes. Perhaps this is why it seems to have a small town atmosphere, even during the busier work week.

Costanera in Ancud, Chiloé

The other thing I noticed is that Ancud is an incredibly walkable city, especially for tourists. Most of the hostales are located within a few blocks of the costanera, or beachfront walkway, and also within walking distance of the Cruz del Sur terminal in Ancud. (Cruz del Sur is the major bus company that serves the island of Chiloé and other parts of southern Chile.) For arriving visitors, this means that your first impression of Ancud probably will involve walking right towards the water.

Views of the Blue Ocean from Ancud, Chiloé

Arriving in Chiloé by bus, you end up right in the middle of the costanera, so you can either head to the center of town or to the beach. I was lucky to have very good weather for most of my time in Chiloé, which meant that the skies were a brilliant blue and the ocean almost equally as aquamarine along the coastline. For this reason, I was more than happy to walk along the costanera in the sunshine towards the center of Ancud.

Wooden Houses and Chilean Flag in Ancud, Chiloé

While there are houses lining the costanera, like those pictured above, there is also a sense of openness, with the city located up on the hills instead of right on the water.

Museo Regional de Ancud Seen from the Costanera

Walking the costanera, you come across several different remnants of Ancud’s history as a Spanish stronghold a few centuries ago. There are a couple of forts you can visit in Ancud with great views over the water, as well as the tower you see above, now part of the Museo Regional de Ancud.

Cannon along the Costanera, Ancud, Chiloé

The costanera also hosts a monument to the battles of past eras, with these colonial cannons looking out over the water. Kids love to play on them, of course, just as I did so many years ago.

Commercial Center of Ancud

Plaza de Armas, Ancud, Chiloé

In most cities in South America, the Plaza de Armas is the best place to start wandering around a new city, exploring the side streets and seeing where you end up.

Building and Murals near Plaza de Armas, Ancud, Chiloé

As you walk around the center of town, the street art starts to catch your eye, more reminiscent of Valparaíso, another gritty port city. (Below, I have some photos of impressive murals with their deeper, socially conscious meanings.)

Cathedral in Ancud, Chiloé

Chiloé is also famous for its wooden churches, but Ancud’s cathedral was actually destroyed in a 1960 earthquake. The cathedral located across from the Plaza de Armas is a reconstruction, and as such it lacks the character of the wooden churches around the island. (This is what the old cathedral looked like.)

Other View of the Plaza, Looking Towards Calle Pudeto

It’s hard to describe the appeal of Ancud, but I hope these photos capture it. I think the reason I liked Ancud so much is that it just exists; it’s a city where people go about their business and their lives.

Calle Pudeto in Ancud, Chiloé

The buildings are brightly colored and interesting, many of them reconstructions after the 1960 earthquake. They are unpretentious, yet still have character and uniqueness.

Calle Pedro Montt in Ancud, Chiloé

Walking through the streets also gives you a great perspective on how residential the city is, with houses stretching out over the green hills of the region.

Views of Ancud, Heading Towards the Port from the Center of Town

It’s possible to spend hours wandering through the streets of Ancud looking at all the small family owned and operated businesses all around the city, stopping in to small restaurants and bakeries to try the food from Chiloé.

Back to the Beach

Beach in Ancud, Chiloé

Because Chiloé is actually known for its rainy weather and misty clouds almost always surrounding the archipelago, when the blue skies come out it is definitely time to head to the beach and take advantage of the sun. There are actually two areas with beachfront in Ancud; one located closer to the edge of the peninsula north of town near the Costanera Norte, and another located on the way out of town towards Puñihuil, closer to the bus station. That’s where we headed.

Colorful Flowers by the Water in Ancud, Chiloé

With such bright sun, the reflections off the water were almost blinding, which led me to take some fun pictures, trying to remember this beautiful day.

Fishing Boat on the Beach in Ancud, Chiloé

Pretty Oceanside Views in Ancud, Chiloé

This would be a good place to bring a book and blanket and just enjoy the sound of the water, a little ways outside the noise and hustle of the city.

Houses of Ancud, Chiloé

Walking further away from the main part of the beach enables you to get a good view of the colorful houses of Ancud all along the costanera.

Summer Reflections on the Sea in Ancud, Chiloé

Yes, there’s something special about being on the water in Chiloé, a feeling that was heightened when I visited the beach in Cucao.

Street Art in Ancud

Mural on Calle Pudeto, Ancud, Chiloé

As mentioned above, the murals on the streets of Ancud are a good way to get a sense of the Chilote mentality and the island’s the regional identity and pride. This mural seems to reflect the Mapuche strength of spirit and resistance. (Click here to see the whole mural on Google Maps.)

“Que no te duerman con cuentos de hadas” – Don’t them put you to sleep with fairytales

This mural indicates the mystical, mythical intrigue around Chiloé, where people still believe in legends involving creatures and spirits that need to be respected and appeased. (Interesting article on NPR here.) There is so much to learn about this side of Chiloé that I bought a couple of short, locally published books on the subject!

Street Art on Calle Pedro Montt in Ancud, Chiloé – “Life and Death”

I think this mural represents the rolling green hills of Chiloé, which are the main source of survival for so many Chilotes who live in the rural areas of the island.

Mural in Ancud, Chiloé

And this one seems to represent the connection with the ocean, with the fishing boats off to the side, a mermaid, perhaps a spirit, and the houses that line the waterfront as well as the trees all over the island.

Mural by the Beach in Ancud, Chiloé: “Este archipélago es mágico, tu basura no” – This archipelago is magical, but your trash isn’t

Finally, this mural by the beach reminds people not to throw their garbage into the area by the beach, as this will just be carried out to the sea, contaminating the waters that give the islands their magic and life. Pretty fitting considering the current crisis faced by the island.

Museums in Ancud

Museo Regional in Ancud, Chiloé, Closed for Strike

Ancud is home to two important museums that help explain the history of Chiloé. Unfortunately for me, the Museo Regional was closed on my visit due to a strike, but definitely seems worth checking out. The museum houses a reconstruction of an important ship, the Goleta Ancud, as well as a giant whale skeleton. (If you do make it to the museum, let me know how your visit went!)

Centro de Visitantes de Iglesias de Chiloé, Ancud, Chiloé

Thankfully, the Centro de Visitantes de Iglesias de Chiloé was still open. This visitors’ center should be a required first stop for anyone interested in learning more about the wooden churches all around Chiloé, which are protected on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

The Centro de Visitantes is housed in a former convent, the Ex-Convento de la Inmaculada Concepción de Ancud. This building also functioned as the cathedral while the current one was being built.

When you visit, make sure to get a guided tour, as this really helps clarify the different techniques used to make the wooden churches.

Basically, the wooden churches were constructed using ship-building techniques. Even if you’re not so interested in churches, it’s pretty interesting to hear all the different types of wood that were used, learn about the different ways to join wood together without nails, and see the many models of the churches around the island, some located in more distant, isolated parts of Chiloé.

Model of the Cathedral in Castro, Chiloé at the Centro de Visitantes de Iglesias de Chiloé

Knowing that I was not going to have the time nor transportation to get everywhere on the island, I appreciated checking out the models and being able to compare their different types of construction. This is definitely a required first stop for anyone planning to visit the wooden churches of Chiloé.

Food and Lodging in Ancud

Hostal Nuevo Mundo in Ancud, Chiloé

Although the bigger, slightly more cosmopolitan city of Castro gets a lot of the tourist traffic, Ancud is actually a really pleasant place to stay. Most of the hostales catering to foreign and budget travelers are located over by the quieter part of the costanera, including Hostal Nuevo Mundo. Hostal Nuevo Mundo has dorms and private rooms, many of them with views over the water, and they also have hot tubs for rent, perfect for those cold Chiloé nights. My friend Marilene stayed at 13 Lunas and absolutely loved it – it seemed to be more friendly and upbeat, and also has great views as it’s at the top of a hill.

Restaurant Corita, Ancud, Chiloé

In terms of food, Ancud is known for its giant empanadas, bigger than anywhere else in Chile. On New Year’s Day, the only place open was Restaurant Corita, a charming restaurant with typical cooking from the island. Of course, they had a ton of seafood options, but they also had giant salads to eat with the empanadas. Portions are huge and service is excellent.

Freshly Brewed Tea at Café Bar Nerudiano in Ancud, Chiloé

On my second day in Ancud, I decided to try out Café Bar Nerudiano, a cute café located on the second floor of a shopping gallery, which turns into a bar in the evenings. The space is illuminated by big windows that provide views over downtown Ancud and there is a balcony with seating outside. They served many types of loose leaf tea, and even have jars for you to sniff them. This was probably one of the best places I had tea in all of Chile, even though Chileans are pros at tea. Look at that infuser AND more hot water on the side.

Vegetarian Sushi at Café Bar Nerudiano, Ancud, Chiloé

They also serve sushi, including the delicious and filling vegetarian sushi. It definitely struck me as a hangout for young, artistic types – everyone who stopped by seemed to know each other.

Kuchen de arándano (Blueberry Cake) and Fresh Cheese from Ancud, Chiloé

Of course, when I travel, I like to buy food at the markets. I picked up some Chiloé-style cheese from the Mercado Municipal in the center of town – the best part is that I was able to sample several kinds to figure out which flavor I liked best. I also finally decided to stop in to a local bakery and buy a slice of kuchen, the fruit cake popular in southern Chile. I opted for the kind with sugar crumble on top and filled with blueberries. I was pleasantly surprised at how delicious it was; I don’t usually like fruit in my desserts, but the subtle sweetness actually enhanced the berries. Don’t be like me – eat more kuchen earlier in your travels. 😉

Sunset in Ancud, Chiloé

Costanera in the Afternoon Sun

One of the reasons I stayed in the hostel right on the water in Ancud was to have easy access to the waterfront during the sunset! Part of Chiloé’s magic comes from the clouds rolling in over the water as the temperatures change from day to night and night to day.

Late Afternoon Sun over the Hills of Chiloé, Ancud

The late afternoon sun illuminated the hillside of Chiloé, making the colorful houses stand out of the landscape like a pastoral painting.

Sunset in Ancud, Chiloé

And as if on cue, the clouds rolled in over the horizon, guaranteeing a fascinating sunset.

Costanera Illuminated by the Afternoon Sun in Ancud, Chiloé

This photo gives a good sense of the length of the costanera – a great place to walk or bike, with many people strolling together and watching the sunset.

Costanera in the Sunset, Ancud, Chiloé

Colors Changing over the Horizon, Ancud, Chiloé

Sunlit Clouds in Ancud, Chiloé

As I watched the skies change, I definitely began to understand the mystique of Chiloé.

More Sunset Shots from Ancud, Chiloé

What can I say, I love a good sunset, and I made sure to go back and watch the next night. The clouds were in a slightly different formation, but still just as beautiful. Staying in Ancud was an excellent choice for classic sunset shots.

As you can see, Ancud is an appealing city; for me, its low-key vibe provided a perfect introduction to the island of Chiloé. While many visitors head straight to Castro, I recommend spending more time in Ancud and exploring the northern part of the Isla Grande de Chiloé, including the nearby penguin colonies at Puñihuil, subject of my next post!

Recommendations for Ancud, Chiloé, Chile:

While the town of Chacao is the entry point to the Isla Grande de Chiloé, most visitors first experience Chiloé in Ancud, the major city at the northern part of the island.
Cruz del Sur is the bus company dominating travel around southern Chile and Chiloé, and also owns the ferries crossing Canal Chacao. The bus stops at the Terminal Municipal on the outskirts of Ancud, where you can transfer to buses to other smaller towns in Chiloé. If you are going to Ancud, stay on the bus until you get to the Cruz del Sur terminal in Ancud proper. Most hostels are located near this terminal, making it easy to walk to them.
I stayed at Hostal Nuevo Mundo due to its location right on the water, and thought it was a pleasant enough hostel, although not particularly friendly. They had a lovely breakfast and great views from the greenhouse-like porch. My travel buddy stayed at nearby 13 Lunas, and she raved about its social atmosphere and views from the balcony.
If you like Ancud’s vibe, you may want to consider basing your explorations of Chiloé from there. We ran into travelers visiting Cucao from Ancud on a day trip. I much preferred Ancud to Castro and wished I had just stayed in Ancud, exploring Castro on a day trip.
I definitely recommend eating at Restaurant Corita and Café Bar Nerudiano. There are a number of other cute restaurants around the area. If you eat seafood, you should definitely try curanto, Chiloé’s classic meal, in Ancud. Great article on the experience here.
Make sure to check out the Mercado Municipal Ancud, located on Av. Libertad between Calle Dieciocho and Calle Arturo Prat. Here, you can find seafood, cheese, and other food products, and many stands with handmade wool items and other souvenirs. This is where I bought my books on the myths of Chiloé and booked my tour to Puñihuil.
Make sure to visit the Plaza de Armas to see the new cathedral. You should also visit the Museo Regional, at Libertad 370, right off the Plaza de Armas. Entry is free. There are a few souvenir and artisanal shops located around the Plaza de Armas.
Visiting the Centro de Visitantes de Iglesias de Chiloé is a must to get a sense for the architecture of the unique churches, even if you’re not a big fan of churches in general. You can find the Visitor’s Center at Federico Errazuriz 227. They also have an on-site café and a small shop where you can buy cool posters of the churches. You can read more about the churches in UNESCO’s write-up.
Although I didn’t get to see it, the Fuerte San Antonio (old fort) located in the northern part of Ancud seems to be pretty cool. Wikitravel has a nice list of more things to do in Ancud.
If you’re interested in learning more about the mythology of Chiloé, this NPR article is a good place to start. If you read Spanish, there are a number of websites documenting the stories told about the island (just do a Google search for “mitos y leyendas de Chiloé”). This is a nice explanation of the cultural history of Chiloé.
If you visit Chiloé, make an effort to understand its culture and history. This is a rural area where the main industries are farming and fishing, and life moves slower here. That’s part of the appeal; if you want a lively city, try Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas!

[Ancud, Chiloé, Chile: January 1-3, 2016]

Ancud, Chiloé at Dusk

April 29, 2016

Puerto Varas, Chile: Savoring a Kayaking Adventure In and Around Lago Llanquihue

Kayaking in Lago Llanquihue, near Puerto Varas, Chile

One of the best things about travel is getting to experience activities that are outside your normal routine. As my love for biking is clearly established, I do my best to find a way to get on a bike wherever I travel. I also love horseback riding and trekking, so the first thing I do when I get somewhere new is scope out my options.

Kayaking in a Lagoon near Puerto Varas, Chile

When I arrived in Puerto Varas, Pierre, the owner of the hostel where I was staying, gave me a rundown of all of the tours and activities around the area. I was most interested in trekking, rafting, and horseback riding, since I hadn’t gotten around to doing any of these things in Pucón. Unfortunately, this was not to be. Pierre warned me that the hiking paths in the national park would be infested with crazy seasonal bugs for the next month, and this was no joke – all the hostel guests who went anyway said it was unbearable. (I later ran into the same bugs in Valdivia!)

Getting Started in the Kayak in a Lagoon near Puerto Varas, Chile

With regards to horseback riding, the best options are in the nearby valley of Cochamó, but these excursions require multiple days and I didn’t have enough time for that on this trip (it definitely remains on my wish list for when I return and head to Chilean Patagonia!). As it turns out, rafting is not a particularly popular option either; the Río Petrohue lacks the appeal of the Río Trancura near Pucón. Instead, most people seeking time out on the water opt for kayaking.

Kayaking in a Lagoon near Puerto Varas, Chile

Kayaking? I searched my memory to try and remember if I had ever been in a kayak before. I know it’s common to take a kayak out on the Charles River in my former home, Cambridge, Massachusetts, but I’d never done it. I finally remembered going kayaking in a two-person kayak on a visit to Seattle, but I’d never been in a kayak on my own. That was about to change.

Kayaking in a Lagoon near Puerto Varas, Chile

Excitedly, the hostel owner, Pierre, explained how amazing it is to be out in a kayak on your own. Knowing that I practice yoga and meditation, he said I would fall in love with kayaking because it would just be me out there, paddling, enjoying the natural surroundings, and concentrating on moving, totally in the moment. This reminded me of my revelations out on the bike in the farmlands between Pucón and Caburgua. I was curious. I was definitely in.

Posing in the Kayak in a Lagoon near Puerto Varas, Chile

There are several options for kayaking around Puerto Varas; many agencies offer kayaking in the bay of Lago Llanquihue. If you’re looking for something different, Hostel Margouya Patagonia offers their own special kayaking excursion that starts off in a quiet lagoon, which you see in the photos above. This gives beginners like me a chance to get comfortable with the rhythm of paddling while navigating through calm waters.

Views of Volcán Calbuco While Kayaking in a Lagoon near Lago Llaquihue

After paddling through the calm lagoon and moving farther away from the shore, we headed through a narrow path through lush foliage growing in the water, passing through trees overhead and appreciating the biodiversity of the lakes region. We came out to another expanse of blue water, a hidden lagoon in the middle of green forests, with amazing views of Volcán Calbuco to boot. Our guide gave us time to paddle around this secluded area, taking in the moment of being somewhere totally peaceful. That was it – I was hooked.

Views of Volcán Osorno from a Kayak in Lago Llanquihue

After enjoying the lagoon, we headed back towards where we had started, but taking a new path, following a channel that fed into Lago Llanquihue. Our guide warned us that there were some strong currents in the giant lake, so to be sure to follow his lead. I was enjoying the activity of moving myself around using the strength of my arms rather than relying on my legs as in biking, and as we moved into Lago Llanquihue we had the opportunity to paddle faster and appreciate the freedom of being in a kayak. And I definitely couldn’t complain about these views. A little point and shoot camera can’t capture the majesty of being in the middle of the wide expanse of blue lake with this giant volcano towering above. Bliss on the water!

Kayaks on Lago Llanquihue, near Puerto Varas, Chile

We paddled towards a quiet beach on the shores of Lago Llanquihue, where our guide had a treat in store for us – afternoon tea and coffee with cookies to help us recharge our batteries. We enjoyed being on dry land for a little while, and the brave went swimming in the chilly waters! At this point, it was late afternoon and the sun was beginning to set behind us, illuminating the area with a beautiful golden glow. (You can see the light on our backs in the photo at the top of the post.)

Kayaking in Lago Llanquihue, with Volcán Osorno in View

We got back in our kayaks and headed towards Volcán Osorno, staying close together but each one of us in our own worlds, enjoying the moment. It was really special to see how the other travelers were also just appreciating the fresh air and warm sunshine on our backs. I definitely understood why people get addicted to kayaking, and will definitely be seeking out more opportunities to explore the area in one.

Sunset over Lago Llanquihue, near Puerto Varas, Chile

As we paddled towards our final destination, another beach on Lago Llanquihue, I kept looking behind me to watch the sunset. When I got to the shore, I grabbed my D40 from the waiting vehicle and started snapping pictures of the golden glow over the blue horizon.

Sunset over Lago Llanquihue, near Puerto Varas, Chile

As I discovered during my bike ride along another stretch of Lago Llanquihue, the lake is enormous, so much bigger that it appears from the city. Looking out into Lago Llanquihue, there was really nothing to see except for blue. It felt like the endless expanses of the Pacific, rather than a lake.

Sunset over Lago Llanquihue, near Puerto Varas

With such clear, blue, cloudless skies, the sunset over the lake was quite simple, much different than the blue sunset I’d spotted from Puerto Varas upon arrival.

Kayaks Ready to Head Back to Puerto Varas

Our guides loaded the kayaks back onto the trailer as we put on more layers to keep the chill off us after so much time out on the water. We piled in the car and enjoyed a pleasant, happy ride back to Puerto Varas, all energized and chatty after such a fun afternoon.

Sunset on the Highway Towards Puerto Varas, Chile

We were rewarded with more views of the beautiful sunset as we drove back to Puerto Varas. My beloved clouds had appeared in the direction of Puerto Varas and captured the sun’s golden rays as it disappeared from view.

After this kayaking adventure on Lago Llanquihue, I am definitely interested in more kayaking trips. Where I can’t go on foot or on bike, I’ll try to go on kayak. I’m looking forward to trying out my skills again on another trip. This was a perfect way to end my stay in Puerto Varas – well, that and the New Year’s Eve celebration the next night. 😉

Recommendations for Kayaking on Lago Llanquihue, near Puerto Varas, Chile:

Obviously, I highly recommend kayaking on Lago Llanquihue. This was a great way to see the volcanos up close and personal and gives you another perspective besides trekking up the volcano or biking along the lake.
I stayed at Hostel Margouya Patagonia, which offers the sunset kayaking excursion, more frequently during the busy summer season. As mentioned, you first paddle around a quiet, secluded lagoon before heading out to Lago Llanquihue for an afternoon snack and the sunset. In December 2015, the excursion cost $25000CLP, which includes the kayak rental, wet suit and water shoes, life preserver, transportation to the lagoon and from the lake, guide, and an afternoon snack.
If you choose not to do a sunset kayaking excursion, try to rent a kayak in the bay of Lago Llanquihue to give you another perspective on the gorgeous views.
I took my old point-and-shoot camera on the excursion by tucking it into my wetsuit so that I could take pictures whenever I wanted. Our guide had a dry bag for anything you wanted to bring along, or you could bring your own. I left my D40 with our other guides so that I didn’t risk its accidental submersion in the lake!

[Kayaking in Lago Llanquihue, Puerto Varas, Chile: December 30, 2015]

April 26, 2016

Frutillar, Chile: Relaxing in the Picture-Perfect, Musical Town on the Shores of Lago Llanquihue

Picture-Perfect Frutillar, Chile

I first heard about Frutillar from one of the teachers I worked with in the Valle de Elqui. I was scanning a map of Chile hanging up in the classroom, looking for potential places to visit down the line, and we started talking about my options in southern Chile. When I mentioned Frutillar, she got a dreamy, far-off look in her eyes and raved about how beautiful the city was when in bloom in the summer. Naturally, I had to check it out for myself.

Striking the Right Note in Frutillar, Chile

Frutillar is a small town located on Lago Llanquihue, famous for three things: its music, both the annual musical celebrations called Semanas Musicales, and Teatro del Lago, its lakeside theatre; its German heritage and architecture; and its sweets, specifically the German-style kuchen popular throughout the south but elevated to an art form in Frutillar.

Frutillar’s Main Symbols

Frutillar is actually technically separated into two parts, Frutillar Alto (High Frutillar) and Frutillar Bajo (Low Frutillar). Frutillar Alto is the commercial and residential part of the town, located literally up on a hill, right off the Panamerican Highway. Frutillar Bajo is the traditional, more picturesque part of the town, which primarily caters to tourists.

Pretty Park in Frutillar, Chile

As the guidebooks mention, Frutillar’s tourist offerings are skewed towards Chilean families and older travelers who want to stay in a pretty lakeside village. But it’s a lovely day trip for more adventure-focused or budget travelers staying in nearby Puerto Varas. One option is to do the intense bike ride from Puerto Varas to Frutillar and back, or you can do what I did and take a local bus from Puerto Varas. I hopped on a bus in downtown Puerto Varas and in about 45 minutes I found myself in Frutillar.

Flowers in Bloom in Frtuillar, Chile

As you can see from the photos, it was a beautiful day in Frutillar. Looking at these photos a few months later, I am struck by the flowers in bloom and the postcard-ready shots from just about everywhere in Frutillar.

Main Road in Frutillar, Chile

The town is quite small, which means you can leisurely walk up and down the main road, stopping to sit in the parks or relaxing on the beach. I wandered down various streets and realized that most buildings house hostales or little restaurants offering typical Chilean food (and kuchen, of course).

Artesania Shop in Traditional German House in Frutillar, Chile

Of course, there are several places offering artesania, mostly knitted, crocheted, or woven goods made from the sheep’s wool common in the south. You can also find jams and marmalades made from regional fruits.

Teatro del Lago, Frutillar, Chile

Frutillar’s crowning glory is its Teatro del Lago, or Theatre of the Lake. The Teatro del Lago was designed to host the aforementioned Semanas Musicales, Frutillar’s major celebration of classical music which takes place each summer.

Views of Restaurant on the Teatro del Lago, Frutillar

And you have to admit, it is a lovely building, although surprisingly large for small-town Frutillar. The Teatro del Lago hosts a number of cafés and restaurants, providing some luxury dining right on the lake.

Views of Lago Llanquihue from Teatro del Lago, Frutillar

The views of Lago Llanquihue from the Teatro del Lago are beautiful, as the theatre is set away from the main road so you can look back at the town and get a panorama of its overall ambiance.

Views of Frutillar from Teatro del Lago

I particularly liked admiring the traditional German-style buildings lining the route out of town, on the other side of the theatre.

Templo Luterano, Frutillar, Chile

After spotting it from the Teatro de Lago, I wandered over to the Templo Luterano, the Lutheran church located on the main road of Frutillar, a historical monument for its typical neogothic construction.

Scenic Views in Frutillar, Chile

I walked to the end of the main road, admiring the little cafés offering kuchen and nothing else – seriously, bring an appetite if you come here! And then it was time to head back towards the center of town, taking in the rest of the sights along the way.

Flowers in Frutillar, Chile

I really loved all the brightly colored photos in bloom all along the road. I love the blues of southern Chile, but after a year in the desert, I was even more excited to see so many colorful flowers.

Frutillar’s Picturesque Wooden Pier

Last but not least, I had to take a stroll down the picturesque wooden pier affording lovely views of blue Lago Llanquihue and Volcán Osorno hiding under the clouds in the background.

Classic Shot of Frutillar’s Pier

I love how evenly the low clouds spread themselves over the mountains in the distance. Perfect harmony!

Touristy Restaurant in Frutillar, Chile

Back in the center of town, I wandered around again to purchase some sweets and also check out some of the more touristy buildings located off the main drag. This one in particular plays up the German-style buildings, but is not a historical monument. The tendency towards tourist kitsch is one of the reasons that many people suggest visiting Puerto Octay to experience a more authentic, laid-back German-style town on the other side of the lake.

Piano Sculpture in Frutillar, Chile

After checking on the bus departure times, I took one more stroll around Frutillar, spotting this piano sculpture inspired by the Semanas Musicales. This is probably my favorite music-inspired sculpture in Frutillar, as it seems to fit nicely into the dream-like backdrop of the picturesque lake.

Volcán Osorno over Lago Llanquihue, Frutillar, Chile

After one more look at the beach and its views of Volcán Osorno, I caught the bus back to Puerto Varas, where I had another adventure waiting for me: kayaking on Lago Llanquihue! All in all, Frutillar was the perfect laid-back day trip; although perhaps it lacks the appeal of an authentic small town, it clearly demonstrates a town proud of its German heritage and its musical traditions – and let’s not forget the kuchen!

Recommendations for Frutillar, Los Lagos, Chile:

Frutillar is located off the Panamerican Highway and is easily accessible by public buses from Puerto Varas. Head to the center of town, near the gas station where all the buses leave, and look for a bus with a placard labeled Frutillar (or Llanquihue/Frutillar) in the window. Bus fare each way cost $1000CLP in December 2015. Buses stop in Llanquihue and Frutillar Alto before heading down the hill to Frutillar Bajo.
The other common route to Frutillar is biking from Puerto Varas. If you are hill-averse like me, or just not feeling confident about your mountain biking skills, I suggest biking to Llanquihue instead and taking the bus to Frutillar.
Bring an appetite for the kuchen (German-style fruit cake) available in many little cafés and restaurants lining the streets of Frutillar. Frutillar gets its name from the strawberries and other berries that grow in this climate, so you might as well try them here.
Although I did not visit, the Museo Colonial Alemán is another option for those curious about the German heritage in Frutillar and the surrounding region, and it also has beautiful gardens.
Teatro del Lago is the main attraction in Frutillar, and if you can time your visit with the Semanas Musicales, Frutillar’s annual classical musical festival, you’ll get a sense for the cultural tradition of this small lakeside town. Make sure to look for all the sculptures celebrating music as well.
Beyond that, Frutillar is really designed for wandering and taking in its parks, beaches, and traditional architecture. There are several hostales but they are geared toward more exclusive guests, so budget travelers generally will stay in nearby Puerto Varas and just head to Frutillar for lunch or an afternoon slice of cake.

[Frutillar, Los Lagos, Chile: December 30, 2015]

April 22, 2016

Puerto Varas, Chile: Biking to Llanquihue and Totoral and Appreciating the Blue Views of Lago Llanquihue

Volcán Osorno over Lago Llanquihue in Llanquihue, Chile (My Favorite Photo from the Day)

Fresh off my successful bike adventure to Lago Caburgua in the Araucania region, I moved on to Puerto Varas already knowing that I wanted to rent a bike and explore the area along Lago Llanquihue. My research had shown me that the most common route was biking to and from nearby Frutillar, a journey of 30 kilometers each way, including some incredibly steep climbs up and down hills (as well as amazing views).

Because the buses between Frutillar and Puerto Varas are small and often filled with passengers, it’s challenging to convince a driver to let you bring your big, heavy mountain bike on the bus, which could save your tired legs the difficult return journey. I started to worry that I wouldn’t be able to make it back, so I asked the hostel staff for their opinions on the ride.

That’s when I received the best suggestion ever: you don’t have to do the whole route. You can turn around whenever you would like. As it turns out, the struggle begins about two-thirds into the ride, when the coastal road turns into a peninsula; up until then, the route provides a comfortable challenge, with some off-road biking and low hills. Why not just bike to the attractive lakeside town of Llanquihue and keep going until you feel like heading back?

Bike Path to Llanquihue from Puerto Varas, Chile

It’s amazing how such a simple suggestion can change your entire perspective! Often we get sucked into the idea that we have to make it all the way to the end, that there’s something to prove, some feat of physical prowess or determination. But that’s limiting. Remember, it’s the journey, not the destination – and I wanted to make the journey and be able to enjoy biking along gorgeous Lago Llanquihue and taking the millions of photos that often slow down my progress.

Best decision ever! So that’s what this post is about – biking from Puerto Varas to Llanquihue, continuing to the fishing village of Totoral, and appreciating all the stops along the way. This serves as a nice reminder that there are many ways to achieve the same thing; I ended up taking the bus to Frutillar the next day, so I was able to appreciate the popular town at a relaxed pace without being exhausted and nervous about how I would physically make it back to Puerto Varas.

Volcán Osorno Rising Over the Fields in the Los Lagos Region

So I rented a mountain bike from the hostel and set off from Puerto Varas. The bike route follows the railroad tracks out of town for a few kilometers, making for an extremely bumpy beginning to the ride and proving the need for a mountain bike! After a few kilometers, a narrow but obvious path appears to the right, passing through the green fields you see in the photos above before connecting to a dirt road.

Dirt Road Between Puerto Varas and Llanquihue, Los Lagos Region, Chile

Once you’re on the Costanera Viente Norte, the route gets a little bit easier (and even more scenic!). Along this road, there are several houses, cabins for rent, and new construction by people wisely taking advantage of the currently unobstructed views of Lago Llanquihue.

Fields Along Coastal Route Between Puerto Varas and Llanquihue, Los Lagos Region, Chile

Naturally, I couldn’t help but stop to take pictures of the green fields with the houses perched on rolling hills. How perfect are those puffy clouds in the blue sky?

Views of Lago Llanquihue Along Coastal Road Between Puerto Varas and Llanquihue

Descending the dirt road towards Llanquihue, the trees and fields start to reveal Lago Llanquihue’s aquamarine blues. Even though I’d seen the lake up close and personal in Puerto Varas, there is something special about seeing it while out and about in nature rather than surrounded by the noise of a busy city.

Views of Volcán Osorno over Lago Llanquihue, in Llanquihue, Chile

Eventually the dirt road connects to a paved one, and you abruptly reach Llanquihue, coming in on a long stretch of road named Teniente Merino with a beautiful park bordering the lake views.

Views of Lago Llanquihue from Llanquihue, Chile

When I hit the paved road, I suddenly realized that my tire had gone flat, making a very sad sound! By complete chance, I happened to run into two bikers on a long-distance ride around southern Chile, and they immediately pointed out the flat and helped me change the tire. (We discovered that my tire had actually been punctured by a staple, which may have been picked up in the hostel!) Yet another one of those fortuitous travel moments; I would have struggled to change the tire on my own, and I actually didn’t run into any other bikers on the rest of the trip.

Views of Volcán Osorno from Llanquihue, Chile

After my new acquaintances continued along their way, I paused to take pictures of the lake from this quiet little stretch of road.

Views of Lago Llanquihue from Llanquihue, Chile

The roadside park would be a perfect place to stop and have a picnic or read a book all afternoon, away from the crowds. The views are amazing and the flowers and bushes in bloom for spring made it an idyllic place to hang out.

“There’s time for everything except for giving yourself some time” – Mural in Llanquihue, Chile

After hopping back on my bike with its newly-repaired tire, I continued through the town of Llanquihue, following the main road through the center of town and crossing over the train tracks. I planned to spend more time there on my way back to Puerto Varas, but first, I wanted to see how far I could get on my bike.

On the way, I spotted this awesome mural painted on a stretch of stone wall on the outskirts of time. Its message resonated with the reason I was on this trip – to take some time for myself to really connect to the beauty of southern Chile, and that’s just what I was doing on my bike adventure!

Biking to Totoral

Chilean Snacks Available at Roadside Stand on Coastal Road Between Puerto Varas and Frutillar

After passing though Llanquihue, I continued biking along Ruta V-155, the scenic coastal road that runs along Lago Llanquihue. Although I had packed a picnic lunch, I was happy to see that enterprising Chileans had set up stands selling Chilean treats like kuchen (German-style cake with fruit) and mote con huesillo, the super sweet Chilean drink commonly served in summer. Beyond that, there are artisanal breweries along this route, another nod to the region’s German heritage.

Wide Expanses of Lago Llanquihue As Seen from the Coastal Road Between Puerto Varas and Frutillar

But what I was there for were the views, and they were amazing. With the Panamerican highway nearby, this coastal road is not heavily transited by vehicles, except for tourists admiring the views. As I rediscovered in my last bike journey, there is nothing like feeling the air in your hair, being out there in nature, experiencing the views 360 degrees around you. Pictures cannot capture the hugeness of Lago Llanquihue and words cannot substitute for the experience. If you’re considering biking in this area, please go and do it! It’s amazing!

Coastal Road Near Totoral, Los Lagos Region, Chile

As I continued the route towards Totoral, I passed a couple of lookout points where I stopped and took pictures of the expanses of lake below me, but finally after some hills I came to a little fishing beach right on the water, near a Nestlé plant. I continued beyond for a little while, but quickly realized the very steep hills and descents were beginning. After consulting Google Maps and seeing that I had reached the challenging part of the journey after 17 kilometers, I decided to head back to the beach and enjoy my well-deserved lunch.

Fishing Boats in Totoral, Los Lagos Region, Chile

Absolutely the right decision, don’t you agree? This little beach appears to be a little bay for fishermen, and I was the only person hanging out there, appreciating the views of Volcán Calbuco in the distance. These kinds of quiet moments are the reason I do solo journeys, and this particular experience reminded me of my explorations on Rapa Nui (Easter Island).

Coastal Road Views Between Llanquihue and Totoral, Los Lagos Region, Chile

After enjoying my snack, I headed back to Llanquihue, enjoying heading downhill after some of the steep climbs along the way, and stopping to take as many photos as I wanted. Since I already knew what the terrain was like heading back, I was more relaxed and could truly enjoy the ride!

Volcán Osorno

Volcán Osorno Over Blooming Fields, Los Lagos Region, Chile

Along the way, I spotted gorgeous fields in bloom at the beginning of summer, with the volcanoes towering above. I had finally learned to identify which volcano was which, with Volcán Osorno’s perfect snow-covered peak.

Volcán Osorno over Lago Llanquihue, Los Lagos Region, Chile

And on another overlook, Volcán Osorno towered over the blue lake. So much blue, just like Lago Caburgua.

Volcán Calbuco

Volcán Calbuco over Blooming Fields, Los Lagos Region, Chile

Of course, I can’t forget Volcán Calbuco, with its wide, jagged peak, equally beautiful towering over the golden fields.

Volcán Calbuco over Lago Llanquihue, Los Lagos Region, Chile

And there it is again, atmospheric clouds floating around its speak, providing a nice contrast to the blue sky.

Exploring the Town of Llanquihue

Scenic Traditional German-Style House in Llanquihue, Chile

After some dedicated pedaling, I made it back to the town of Llanquihue. As I crossed the train tracks, I realized that there was another road leading down a tree-lined street. I had come in on Baquedano through the commercial district, but the views to my left lured me in. I started down Salomon Negria, immediately spotting this traditional house in the German style. Can you imagine the views from this place? This is still one of my favorite photos.

Beach on Lago Llanquihue in Llanquihue, Chile

I continued along the road, realizing as I approached that I was heading towards the beach. Who knew that there was such a nice, quiet beach located in this little town? I certainly didn’t!

Views of the Beach on Lago Llanquihue in Llanquihue, Chile

Not only does Llanquihue have a sandy beach, but there is also a park with lots of trees offering shade from the hot sun. I can see why this little town is attractive for families and anyone needing an escape from nearby Puerto Varas.

Swimming in Lago Llanquihue in Llanquihue, Chile

If I had known, I might have brought my swimsuit! Just as I felt in Villarica, there is something special about swimming under the watch of this lovely volcano.

Wooden Sculptures by the Beach in Llanquihue, Chile

Having sufficiently appreciated the beach, I headed back into town, stopping in to a little convenience store to buy more cold water. I ended up chatting with the shop owner for quite a while, as Llanquihue does not often see many foreign tourists passing through. These little moments of curiosity and connection are some of my favorite things about solo travel.

Wooden Sculptures in Llanquihue, Chile

As I headed out of town, I spotted more of these wooden sculptures lining the river that crosses through the town. I decided to check them out; they appear to be an art installation celebrating the indigenous cultures of Chile.

Wooden Sculptures in Llanquihue, Chile

While the commercial district of Llanquihue is not particularly attractive, these sculptures help give the town more character. This is real town, living and breathing with the everyday lives of its inhabitants, as opposed to the tourist-friendly sheen of Puerto Varas. And it has lots of character and is well worth a visit!

Volcán Osorno over Lago Llanquihue, from Llanquihue, Chile

From there, I continued my return trip past my favorite little park, where I took the photo at top of the post (my favorite from the day, though it’s hard to choose) as well as this one. The clouds over the lake had mostly cleared, which led to some pretty reflections of the snow-covered peak in the water. The wildflowers and grass growing along the edge of the park provided an nice contrast to so many blues.

As a reminder to anyone considering the bike journey: after leaving Llanquihue, the route turns into dirt roads and narrow paths through fields before the gravel-filled, bumpy adventure along the train tracks. Make sure to save some energy for the last 30 minutes of your trip, and be smart about the path you take through hilly Puerto Varas.

As you can see, I throughly enjoyed my bike adventure along the coastal route from Puerto Varas to Totoral, and especially appreciated the chance to get to know the town of Llanquihue more than I would have otherwise. This was what was right for me on this trip, and I highly suggest it to anyone feeling intimidated by the hilly route to Frutillar!

Recommendations for Biking to Llanquihue and Totoral, Los Lagos, Chile:

As I mention above, the traditional bike route is a 30 kilometer trip between Puerto Varas and Frutillar, and then another 30 kilometers back. You leave Puerto Varas by following the route along the railroad track for a few kilometers until you see a trail appear to your right, and head along a dirt path leading to an unpaved road along the coast. Then the road continues along a paved road through the town of Llanquihue until you reach the coastal highway Ruta V-155. You follow Ruta V-155 for about 15 kilometers of fairly easy terrain, with some hill climbs and descents, until you pass Totoral. After Totoral, Ruta V-155 heads inland, considered to be the “shortcut” to Frutillar along a hilly gravel road. The coastal highway turns into V-305 and apparently includes lots of hills as well. I chose to turn around at Totoral to enjoy a more relaxing and less physically exhausting day.
Although most of the route is along a highway, there is not much traffic on this road and there are kiosks, artisanal breweries, and tourist accommodations along the way should you run into any issues or need to refuel with water or snacks. There are several descents down the cliffs to lakefront beaches as well as an easily accessible beach in Totoral, in case you don’t feel like locking up your bike. This is the advantage of taking it easy on the bike – you can stop and check out some of the stops along the way.
Make sure to bring lots of water for the journey and make sure your bike rental provides a kit for changing your tire as you will head through gravel and dirt roads and might get a flat like I did.
I rented my bike from Hostel Margouya Patagonia, where I was staying, and it cost me $5000 CLP for a half-day rental. There are other bike rental shops in Puerto Varas, or you can go with an organized tour. The advantage of doing this is that you go with a group that follows you with a van just in case you run out of steam (I saw a group doing this on my way).
I highly suggest visiting Llanquihue! Even if you don’t feel like biking, or you do want to do the full journey to Frutillar, you can take a bus from Puerto Varas to Llanquihue (they leave from the center of town near the gas station). Any of the Frutillar buses stop in Llanquihue. Llanquihue is a small town with a residential district and a commercial district, but if you head towards the water there is a lovely beach with a little tree-covered park. This would be a great place to spend the afternoon. I also really liked the quiet park on the outskirts of town, which would be my pick if coming in on bike.
As I mention above, the biggest lesson I learned on this journey was that I don’t have to do everything the way the rest of the travelers do. I knew I physically was not up for the hill climbs, and so I decided to make the most of my own adventure by taking lots of pictures and stopping whenever I felt like it. This was the right choice for me, but you might feel differently! I like this blog post detailing two travelers’ quest for artisanal beer along the way. Choose your own adventure!

[Llanquihue and Totoral, Los Lagos, Chile: December 29, 2015]

Volcán Calbuco over Lago Llanquihue from the Ride Between Puerto Varas and Totoral

April 17, 2016

Puerto Montt, Chile: An Afternoon in the Port City and Gateway to Chilean Patagonia

Views of the Puerto Montt Skyline over Seno de Reloncaví (Reloncaví Sound)

As the thick cloud cover and gorgeous blue sunset foretold on my first day in nearby Puerto Varas, the weather on my second day in the Los Lagos region turned grey and cloudy with the occasional sprinkle of rain . No matter – I had a very mundane errand in mind (take out cash at the only Scotiabank ATM in the region), so I needed to head to the commercial city of Puerto Montt anyway.

To be honest, I was curious about Puerto Montt because of its nickname, Muerto Montt, or Dead Montt, so-called because the city lacks personality. I have a fondness for port cities, like Iquique in northern Chile, and I like stepping outside of the tourist bubble and seeing how people go about their day-to-day lives. So I hopped on a bus to Puerto Montt to head to the bank and see what the city had to offer.

Street Market in Puerto Montt, Chile (Thanks for the photo, Sidetracked Travel Blog!)

Thanks to Google Maps on my smartphone, navigating a new city is that much easier. The bus route from Puerto Varas to Puerto Montt leaves Puerto Varas along Av. San Francisco, merges onto the Panamerican Highway heading South, and then enters Puerto Montt on Av. Presidente Salvador Allende (and let’s just reflect for a moment on how cool is it that this major road is named after the former president). At the intersection with Urmeneta, the bus turns away from downtown Puerto Montt, so I hopped off the bus and followed all the locals wandering down the hill towards the market and waterfront.

The first thing I noticed was the number of vendors lining the streets around the Santa Isabel supermarket at the corner of Pdte. Salvador Allende and Diego Portales, selling all kinds of local produce and other items. (Naturally, I ended up buying some more berries on my way back to Puerto Varas.)

Old Train in Puerto Montt, Chile

I continued walking down busy Av. Diego Portales (the start of the Carretera Austral) to get my bearings and get a sense for this hectic city. Puerto Montt is first and foremost an industrial city, its streets lined with big warehouses, superstores catering towards the mechanical side of the spectrum, and cheap hotels and eateries for people only planning a night’s stay before heading out on a ship or truck. I was starting to understand its nickname. Finally, I reached Puerto Montt’s main park on the waterfront. (Right next to the park is the Museo Municipal Juan Pablo II, which has exhibits on regional history and is probably worth a wander.)

Murals near the Costanera in Puerto Montt

“I still don’t know what we are but I don’t want you to leave” – Graffiti in Puerto Montt, Chile

Drawn in by the random train in the middle of the park and what looks to be the former train station covered in intriguing political murals (note the Resistencia Mapuche painting in the photo above), I headed towards the costanera to enjoy a short stroll along the water.

Views over Seno de Reloncaví, Puerto Montt, Chile

Obviously, what caught my eye as I looked out over the Reloncaví Sound were the unusual buoys in the shape of soccer balls. Whether this was celebrating Chile’s win during the Copa América or just the garden-variety Chilean passion for fútbol, I’m not entirely sure.

Views over Seno de Reloncaví, Puerto Montt, Chile

With the dismal grey clouds coating the horizon, there was not much to look at, but the water was calm and peaceful.

Walking Along the Costanera in Puerto Montt

Walking along the costanera is a pleasant way to take in the downtown skyline and the water. It takes you away from the noise of the rest of the city for a few moments.

Chilean Flag on the Costanera in Puerto Montt

Monuments on the Costanera in Puerto Montt

One interesting part of the costanera is this series of busts honoring Chilean naval heroes.

Relaxing Views over the Water in Puerto Montt

The other attraction along the waterfront is this giant sculpture of a couple in love. Cuddling by the water is probably a pretty popular pastime in Puerto Montt – I’m sure I walked past quite a few couples on the park benches. 😉

Nuestra Señora del Carmen Cathedral, Puerto Montt

Next, I headed back toward the commercial district of Puerto Montt, making sure to pass by the main plaza. Puerto Montt’s cathedral, named Nuestra Señora del Carmen, towers majestically above the plaza and is a symbol of the city, constructed out of alerce wood, or Patagonian cypress.

Sanito, a Cute Café in Puerto Montt

I continued my walk through downtown Puerto Montt in search of my next destination: a small restaurant/café called Sanito. I had read about Sanito in an article mentioning health food restaurants in Chile – it seemed to be the only vegetarian-friendly spot in the Los Lagos region.

Lunch at Sanito in Puerto Montt, Chile

This café was definitely a little sanctuary in the middle of hectic Puerto Montt. Its bright interior and excellent music playing overhead gave me the sense that I was back in Cambridge. I opted for a delicious salad and was happy to enjoy some loose leaf tea!

“What’s important is to laugh and laugh together” – Graffiti in Puerto Montt

After my healthy lunch, I headed back through the commercial center in search of my bank and the Casa de Arte Diego Rivera, a theater and exhibition space dedicated to the Mexican muralist. Unfortunately, due to the holidays, it did not seem to have any current exhibitions, but I would suggest checking it out as there seem to be quite a few interesting events held there on a regular basis.

Other than that, Puerto Montt seemed to have a typical commercial downtown with lots of galleries and shops. Not in need of anything, I decided to head back to the market to buy my fruit and catch a bus back to Puerto Varas. In the end, I enjoyed the opportunity to contrast flashy Puerto Varas with scruffy Puerto Montt, and think it’s worth an afternoon’s wander, especially if you have some errands to run or want to take advantage of the markets.

Recommendations for Puerto Montt, Chile:

Puerto Montt is located about 30 minutes from Puerto Varas. You can catch the bus on San Francisco (by the church or the Cruz del Sur bus station) and it will drop you off close to the downtown area at Pdte. Salvador Allende and Urmeneta. Most passengers get off here. The ride costs $800 CLP each way and you pay when you get on the bus.
Although Puerto Montt is a common destination for people heading to Patagonia either on a bus or by boat, there are limited budget traveler accommodations. The market caters towards workers needing a one-night stay. I highly recommend you stay in Puerto Varas instead of Puerto Montt.
As mentioned above, the main attractions in Puerto Montt are the commercial district with its street markets and shopping galleries, the Museo Municipal Juan Pablo II located on the costanera next to the bus terminal, and the Casa de Arte Diego Rivera, located at Quillota 116. While researching this post, I found out that there is a market complex called Mercado Anselmo with stands selling fish, fruit, and artisan wares, just outside the commercial district.
If you’re looking for light, healthy meals, head to Sanito, a café offering salads and sandwiches that turns into. Sanito is located at Copiapó 66, just outside the commerical district and is a nice sanctuary from the city hustle. At night it turns into Cariñito, a restaurant/bar.
Puerto Montt is a major transportation hub, and many people board the Navimag Ferries heading to Patagonia from here. There is a giant bus terminal located on the corner of Diego Portales and Pdte. Salvador Allende with destinations north and south, but you can also take buses from Chiloé and Puerto Varas that will pass through Puerto Montt. (Cruz del Sur is the main company in the region – they even own the ferries to Chiloé.) You don’t seem to save much money by heading to Puerto Montt, though you may have more options for departure times.
If you are heading to Patagonia, Along Dusty Roads has a comprehensive post describing the various travel options to the more southern region of the country. Puerto Montt is considered the gateway to Patagonia for good reason!

[Puerto Montt, Los Lagos, Chile: December 28, 2015]

April 15, 2016

Puerto Varas, Chile: Where Scenic Landscapes, Adventure Travel, and German Heritage Collide in Southern Chile

Volcán Osorno over Lago Llanquihue, as seen from Puerto Varas, Chile

After leaving the amazing lakes and landscapes of Pucón and the Araucania region, I headed south to Puerto Varas. Where nearby Puerto Montt is the official gateway to Patagonia and commercial capital of Los Lagos (the Lakes Region), Puerto Varas is the center of all tourist and cultural activity. It draws you in with its ideal location on the shores of Lago Llanquihue, with impressive views of Volcán Osorno and Volcán Calbuco, and then keeps you there with its strong ties to German architecture, food, and culture imported by immigrants a century ago. Not only that, Puerto Varas offers easy access to adventure activities all around the region, including trekking, biking, and my new favorite, kayaking. There’s also an emphasis on natural products and sustainable lifestyle.

As you can probably tell, Puerto Varas is my favorite city in Southern Chile. As my former manager (also a Chile-phile) said when I told her it was my next destination, “I love Puerto Varas. I never feel like I have enough time there!” There’s so much to do and see and experience. It’s a perfectly situated tourist destination where you can easily spend a week or two, and yet somehow manages to avoid feeling over-sold like nearby Pucón.

In this post, I describe Puerto Varas proper, and in future posts, I’ll get into details about the surrounding area.

Appreciating Picturesque Puerto Varas

Views of the Puerto Varas Costanera and Lago Llanquihue

Basically the first thing anyone wants to do upon arrival to Puerto Varas is head down the hill to Lago Llanquihue to take in the views of the crystal blue lake with views of not one, but two, snow-capped volcanos. Puerto Varas has a long, walkable costanera along Avenida V. Perez Rosales, with several lookout points and beaches. (In fact, while I was there, just in time for New Year’s Eve, construction finished up on a new lookout point, as you seen in the edge of this picture.)

Because the buildings that line the coastline are constructed in the traditional German-inspired style, the entire skyline looks serene and picturesque, spreading across the green hills and city streets.

Volcán Calbuco over Lago Llanquihue, from Puerto Varas, Chile

But really, what you’re there to see are the volcanos! I was fascinated by the jagged peak of Volcán Calbuco, and took so many pictures of it that it was hard to narrow down to this one.

Looking out over Lago Llanquihue at Volcán Osorno and Volcán Calbuco, Puerto Varas

And then you turn just a little bit to the left and see both volcanos right in front of you, sitting majestically over the sparkling aquamarine lake.

Puerto Varas, Chile

There’s a cute little park on a peninsula jutting out into the lake, as you see in the photo above. It’s a perfect place to sit and relax for a little while. (Also an ideal place for taking selfies! 😛 )

Volcán Osorno Towering Majestically Over Lago Llanquihue in Puerto Varas

Of course, Volcán Osorno is yet another perfect looking peak – Chile’s blessed with so many pretty volcanoes. Well, I guess you could say that the country is actually cursed with them considering there’s an eruption every few decades. But they sure are beautiful to admire from a distance!

Boating and Relaxing on the Beach

Canoes and Swimmers on the Shores of Lago Llanquihue, Puerto Varas

After sufficiently admiring the views of volcanoes from the coastline of Puerto Varas, you can appreciate Lago Llanquihue by getting in the water. There are a few stands renting canoes and there are also travel agencies that can take you out kayaking in the bay. Or you can just go swimming!

Beach on the Shores of Lago Llanquihue, Puerto Varas

As I visited during the holidays, right between Christmas and New Year’s, there were lots of families lounging on the beach located near downtown Puerto Varas. In Puerto Varas, there is another beach further down the costanera heading towards towards Ensenada; each town that surrounds the lake has a least one lakefront beach!

Views over Lago Llanquihue, Puerto Varas

Heading towards the railroad tracks and Parque Phillippi, there is another peninsula with a rocky beach and this interesting metal sculpture, which appears to be a woman majestically looking out over the water.

The Mini-Skyline of Puerto Varas Over Lago Llanquihue

It’s worth walking down this far because you get a great view of the skyline of Puerto Varas, with its distinctive architecture. Definitely a far cry from the adobe of northern Chile (where I lived for a year)!

Blue Sunset over Lago Llanquihue

Blue Sunset over Lago Llanquihue, Puerto Varas (My Personal Favorite Photo)

As I visited Puerto Varas just as the seasons changed from spring into summer, the weather was changeable, bringing clouds that came and went over the course of the days. Though the skies were mostly clear when I arrived, the clouds rolled in as the afternoon went on, leading to what I’m calling a “blue sunset.” I’ve mentioned before that I’m obsessed with clouds, so I headed to the waterfront to capture their magic. The patches of sun through the clouds led to teal blue reflections on the water.

Blue Sunset over Lago Llanquihue, Puerto Varas

The colorful clouds also completely obscured the volcanoes, providing an entirely new perspective on the lake.

Beautiful Clouds over Puerto Varas, Chile

The clouds above were in beautiful formations, glowing with the last rays of the setting sun.

Blue Sunset over Lago Llanquihue, Puerto Varas

Just earlier that afternoon, I had stared at Volcán Calbuco, now completely hidden behind a thick cloud cover.

Sunset over Puerto Varas, Chile

Looking back towards Puerto Varas, the clouds made the skyline look more even more intriguing.

Blue Sunset over Lago Llanquihue, Puerto Varas

I loved the haunting quality of the blue sunset, with the lonely fishing boats floating out in the water.

Historical German-Style Architecture in Puerto Varas

Iglesia Sagrado Corazón, Puerto Varas, Chile

Beyond the blue sunsets, lake views, and volcanoes, many people travel to Puerto Varas to appreciate its German heritage. In 1852-3, German immigrants were encouraged to settle southern Chile by the Chilean government, and they brought with them their traditional architecture, as well as their food and beer.

Park Decorated with Christmas Trees and Iglesia Sagrado Corazón in the Background, Puerto Varas

The classic landmark is the Iglesia Sagrado Corazón, which you see in the two photos above. This red and white building is emblematic of Puerto Varas and easy to spot from any viewpoint as it is located up a steep hill.

Casa Kuschel, Puerto Varas, Chile

Besides the church, there are at least 18 well-preserved and clearly marked houses constructed in the German style. Some of them currently function as tourist lodging, while others are private homes.

Casona Alemana, Puerto Varas, Chile

The municipality has set up an easy-to-follow self-guided tour of the historical houses, clearly marked with their name and a brief description of their history and which family constructed them. (It was very cloudy on my visit, which made for a more pleasant walking tour, but I do wish I had better photos!)

Casa Jupner, Puerto Varas, Chile

It’s surprisingly difficult to find much information on the historical houses, besides this Wikipedia entry (in Spanish). Many of its reference sites have disappeared from the internet.

Casa Hitschfeld, Puerto Varas, Chile

Interestingly, I learned from my research that only a few houses are protected as part of the local and national heritage, so only those in the “typical zone” are protected from demolition.

Casa Brintup, Puerto Varas, Chile

Sadly, this is a common tale in Chile; as I learned from my tour guide on the Isluga tour in northern Chile, the government just does not invest money and resources in protecting its history. Santiago favors modern buildings, and the suburbs of the capital are filled with streets of identical-looking houses.

Centro Cultural Estación, Puerto Varas, Chile

Sadly, this means that a lot of these buildings are starting to look abandoned (or actually are abandoned), even the cultural center located in the old train station. Kind of sad, but in the end, maintaining old wooden buildings requires investment of time and money, and every town has limited resources.

Casa Rehbein, Puerto Varas, Chile

For this reason, it’s better that these historical houses stay in use as attractive sites for businesses. This one currently houses an orthodontist!

Casa Muñoz, Puerto Varas, Chile

Someone I met in Puerto Varas told me that the people who constructed these houses were not expert carpenters, so the structure inside the buildings is pretty random – they made it work, somehow, but it’s not all precise cuts and perfectly fitted connections.

Casa Horn, currently Hostel Margouya Patagonia, Puerto Varas, Chile

Of course, the best use of these historical buildings would have to be Hostel Margouya Patagonia, located inside Casa Horn. I stayed at this hostel, but in their sister building around the corner, also a historical monument. Sometimes it’s just better to keep using the buildings to make sure they are well looked after.

Eating and Drinking Well in Puerto Varas

Food Trucks in Puerto Varas, Chile

Of course, another reasons that you travel to Puerto Varas is to eat well. While the city does not court luxury travelers quite as much as Pucón, it still tends to be a little more upscale than your average Chilean town. This includes gourmet food options served out of modern food trucks. Was I in southern Chile or a major capital city?

Falafel from Costumbrista Food Truck, Puerto Varas, Chile

After limited options in the year I lived in the Valle de Elqui, I was excited to see falafel on the menu of the Costumbrista food truck. Costumbrista has a small restaurant located on Del Salvador, one of the main streets in Puerto Varas, but they offer slightly more accessible prices as their food truck. Delicious.

Empanadas Puerto Varas

Okay, so I didn’t actually eat there (because I was still full from the falafel!), but this empanada shop is so cute from the outside. What a perfect advertisement for their business!

To be perfectly honest, I actually ended up cooking most of my meals or eating while out traveling around the area. Instead, I chose to buy lots of fresh fruit from the vendors on the street. It was berry and stone fruit season in the south, meaning that the vendors had cups full of raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, blueberries, peaches, and apricots. So delicious – and so fresh!

On New Year’s Eve, I headed into town to spend a few hours doing my annual writing exercise, and decided to go to El Barista Caffe, one of the top restaurants and bars in the area. I was not disappointed. It was the first time they offered me options for pisco sour: dry, classic, or sweet.

With ample outdoor seating, it was the perfect place to spend a sunny afternoon in Puerto Varas. They are also super traveler friendly; lots of solo travelers stopped by while I sat there.

Ensalada El Barista, El Barista Caffe, Puerto Varas

For lunch, I opted for one of the most flavorful salads I’ve had – with fried goat cheese, roasted mushrooms, sun-roasted tomatoes, and an amazing honey dijon sauce. Definitely enjoyed the gourmet flavors – it had been a while.

I finished up my outdoor writing session with a glass of red wine before heading back to the hostel for the big New Year’s Eve party. It was a good way to finish out the year – honoring myself and processing all the changes I went through in 2015, especially towards the end of the year.

My only regret is that I didn’t try this restaurant earlier in my trip – worth revisiting a few times!

Sustainable Living in Puerto Varas

Bike Parking Sign in Puerto Varas

The other thing I really liked about Puerto Varas was its emphasis on sustainable living and natural products. As a biker, I appreciated this cute bike parking sign in the downtown shopping district. There are several stores offering natural products, including Huerto di Fiore, where I bought some natural shampoo made right there in Puerto Varas. (They also offer teas from the Republic of Tea, imported from the US!)

New Year’s Eve

Panorama of the Hostel Barbecue (click to see it more clearly)

One of the reasons that I headed to Puerto Varas was that I needed somewhere awesome to spend New Year’s Eve. After a successful solo Christmas in Pucón, I knew that Puerto Varas had just the right social atmosphere for my first solo New Year’s Eve.

As mentioned above, I stayed at Hostel Margouya Patagonia, which had so many guests in high season that they opened a sister site in their usual English school location. The best part of their location? The giant backyard, perfect for a barbecue attended by 30+ people. And the crowds kept rolling in as night fell.

New Year’s Eve Fireworks in Puerto Varas

Right before midnight, the city of Puerto Varas puts on a simple, but lovely, fireworks display over Lago Llanquihue, captured in my blurry photo, above. The entire hostel headed down to the waterfront before then going out dancing to ring in the new year. Even though I’d booked an early bus to Chiloé on January 1, I appreciated the good vibes of my fellow hostel guests and felt it was the perfect way to end my stay in Puerto Varas.

Recommendations for Puerto Varas, Chile:

Puerto Varas is an excellent place for a longer stay, especially if you need a place to rest for a few days on an extended backpacking journey. There are enough interesting restaurants and unique shops around Puerto Varas to make wandering around quite fun, and there are plenty of cultural and adventure activities around the area.
Make sure to go on the walking tour of the historical homes of Puerto Varas. Your hostel should be able to provide you with a map, or ask at the tourist information center downtown.
There are two scenic viewpoints above Puerto Varas, one a 30 minute trek up the hill in Parque Phillippi, and the other up Monte Calvario.
I stayed at Hostel Margouya Patagonia, a highly recommended hostel run by Pierre, a Frenchman fluent in Spanish and English who takes his business very seriously. The hostel has a complete kitchen and they offer lots of tours around the surrounding area, especially in high season. They also rent bikes for the ride to Frutillar, saving you time and money.
I highly suggest having a meal, coffee, or drink at El Barista Caffe! There are many, many cafes in Puerto Varas which serve the region’s famous kuchen, or German-style cakes topped with regional fruits. Cafe Danés also came highly recommended and always seemed really busy. Based on my experience at their food truck, I would also recommend Costumbrista. There are lots of good eating options – look around!
Besides checking out the beaches and going on the walking tour, you should try to get out and about in the Lakes Region. There are a LOT of options. You can take a local bus to Frutillar, a cute town on the shores of Lago Llanquihue, known for having a lot of kuchen and musical performances (post forthcoming!). The more ambitious can do the 30km bike ride to Frutillar… and then head back. I opted to bike only to Llanquihue and Totoral, about 17km, avoiding the super steep hills and making my ride back much shorter! (More details in my future post.) Besides Llanquihue, you can head in the opposite direction towards Ensenada. Puerto Octay is another town beyond Frutillar which is more authentically German than touristy Frutillar.
For water sports, you can rent canoes or going kayaking in the bay. My hostel offered a sunset kayaking option, taking us to a nearby lagoon and ending with us kayaking in Lago Llanquihue as the sun set behind us. This was an an amazing experience that I’ll document in a future post.
Puerto Montt, the capital of the Los Lagos region, is only 30 minutes away by bus, and is an important commerical center with an interesting market. (See my future post.)
If you’re interested in trekking, there are several routes located around Volcán Osorno that are easily accessible by public transportation. The most common route is on the Sendero Desolación and the extension, the Sendero Los Alerces (information here, in Spanish). For the really ambitious, there is another extension to the Rincón del Osorno trail, which leads back to Petrohué. I opted not to do this hike because there are giant flying insects that come out in late December in January which make the hike just about swatting insects. (I ran into these insects in the Valdivia area a week later!) The other trail is the Sendero Solitario, which you can read about here (in Spanish). After trekking, most people stop by the Saltos del Petrohué, pretty waterfalls located in the Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales. Tour agencies also offer trekking up Volcán Osorno followed by mountain biking down. There is no entry fee at the national park, and the bus from Puerto Varas to Petrohué costs $2500 CLP each way. Entry to the Saltos de Petrohué costs $1500 CLP.
For fans of water sports, there is also the possibility of going rafting in the Río Petrohué, though the owner of the hostel where I stayed told me that it wasn’t really worth the cost (especially since the river is rather far away from Puerto Varas).
If you’re lucky, you can find a tour to Lago Todos Los Santos, a less-visited but beautiful lake located on the other side of Volcán Osorno. This description in the New York Times is magical.
The one thing I really wish I had done was spend some time in the Valle Cochamó, a beautiful valley located near Puerto Varas. There are multiple day horseback riding trips that I definitely want to do on a future visit. Unforutately, I was short on time and really wanted to visit Chiloé. When I head back to Chile to visit Patagonia and hopefully the Carretera Austral, I will definitely spend some time in Cochamó!

[Puerto Varas, Los Lagos, Chile: December 27, 2015-January 1, 2016]

April 9, 2016

Villarica, Chile: Charismatic Chilean City with Amazing Views of Volcán Villarica

My Favorite Photo of Volcán Villarica as seen from Villarica, Chile

Lest you’re sick of photos of gorgeous blue lakes and volcanoes, this is my last post on the region of Araucanía in southern Chile – and probably my favorite place in the area. On my last day in Pucón, I thought I’d go horseback riding, but with all available spots booked up due to high season, I opted for a low-budget trip to nearby Villarica instead. Villarica is a small city on the other side of Lago Villarica, which maintains closer ties to its Mapuche heritage and promised to have a little more character than tourist-catering Pucón.

Downtown Villarica

Municipality of Villarica, Chile Decked Out for Christmas

I was not disappointed. I hopped a bus in Pucón for the 30 minute ride to its neighboring city, and before I knew it, I was in downtown Villarica. From the moment of arrival, Villarica feels different – like a place where normal people live and work, with lots of businesses lining the main streets, shopping complexes, and actual houses with lawns in front of them. With wide sidewalks and a relatively compact downtown area, it’s a pleasant place to wander around aimlessly, just seeing what you come across.

I started off my tour in front the municipality building, where I was impressed by the attractive wooden buildings, such a difference from the adobe in the north. I appreciated seeing Villarica decked out for the holidays, with strings of lights dangling from its main buildings.

Map of Downtown Villarica, Chile

As the map shows, there are only a few tourist attractions in Villarica, making it an easy place to get to know in an afternoon – but well worth the visit!

Library in Villarica, Chile

As it was a holiday weekend, the library was closed, but I managed to check out the ruka located inside the Mapuche cultural center. The ruka (sometimes written ruca), is the traditional housing structure made of straw and mud, used by the Mapuche people who still live in southern Chile (more info in Spanish here).

Ruka Museum in the Mapuche Cultural Center in Villarica, Chile

For those who don’t know, the Mapuches are the indigenous group that still have a large, powerful presence in southern Chile (and Santiago, for that matter) and are known for resisting the invasion of both the Incas and the Spanish conquistadores. I appreciated the brief but interesting opportunity to get to know a little more about Mapuche culture both by checking out the ruka and the stands filled with traditional foods and crafts around the cultural center.

Artisan Wares in Villarica, Chile

The other aspect of Villarica that was fascinating to me were the multiple artisan markets located near the Municipality, down several main streets, and near the Mapuche cultural center and library. This region is especially known for its woodwork, evident from the prevalence of wood buildings all the way to wooden kitchenware. You can also find pottery and knitted goods – I was particularly impressed by a stand run by a collective of women artisans boasting high quality knitware, located near the municipality buildings.

Streets of Villarica, Chile

Beyond handicrafts, there are several interesting stores all around Villarica. I found myself wandering around, taking my time, and window shopping.

Streets of Villarica, Chile

This gave me a chance to fully appreciate the different vibe of Villarica. It seems like a pleasant residential city – and it is actually growing in popularity among expats exactly for this reason. With lots of nearby services (read: giant shopping centers) and a compact downtown area, it’s also appealing to Chilean families.

“Alcohol causes damage, but we forgive it” – Funny sign in Villarica, Chile

And let’s not forget the food and nightlife. There are tons of spacious restaurants and bars scattered around Villarica. I think this would be a fun place to go out, if that’s what you’re into, and probably a little more affordable than Pucón.

Streets of Villarica, Chile

By this point in the afternoon, I was sufficiently charmed by the city of Villarica, so I decided to continue my explorations and headed to the lakefront to enjoy the rest of the sunny day.

Villarica’s Beautiful Costanera

Volcán Villarica from Villarica, Chile

When I mentioned that I was curious about the fairly new costanera (promenade) along the shores of Lago Villarica, a resident of Pucón told me that the views from his city were better. WRONG. Villarica’s costanera provides gorgeous views of the blue, blue lake and the mountains in the distance.

Volcán Villarica over Lago Villarica in Villarica, Chile

Even better, the views of Volcán Villarica are unobstructed by hotels and new luxury buildings in construction – for the most part. I was captivated by the views of the volcano in all its glory!

Lago Villarica, Villarica, Chile

Of course, I couldn’t help but appreciate the deep blues of the lake coupled with the pretty blue sky. Just as at Lago Caburgua, the hills in the distance also take on a blue hue. Good thing blue is my favorite color! 😉

Little Lakeside Park on Lago Villarica, Villarica, Chile

I think the most charming part of the costanera is the fact that there are so many little lakeside parks, or rather, grassy areas with trees, right on the shores of the lake. This is a perfect place for a picnic with friends or family, or a place to sit down with a book and spend a couple of hours in the sunshine.

Volcán Villarica over Lago Villarica, in Villarica, Chile

Because the costanera is so long, it’s pretty easy to find a quiet corner to relax – you don’t have to go all the way to the beach. As far as I’m concerned, the decision to construct the costanera for Chile’s bicentennial celebration in 2010 was an excellent one – and for some reason, Villarica’s gorgeous lakefront views still seem like a well-preserved secret, perhaps because most foreign tourists base themselves out of Pucón.

Playa Pucara

Playa Pucara, Lago Villarica, Villarica, Chile

After wandering the length of Villarica’s costanera from the center of town, you end up at Playa Pucara, a black sand beach popular among vacationing Chilean families.

Playa Pucara, Lago Villarica, Villarica, Chile

Obviously, this beach is not at all a secret, nor does it want to be! There are plenty of services located by the beach, including basic cafés, public restrooms, and several little food stands with Chilean favorites like mote con huesillo. Due to the open spaces, the beach never feels crowded; there’s room for everyone. With the strong sun and hot temperatures of summer, it’s a good place to go for a swim.

Lago Villarica, Villarica, Chile

Besides swimming, entrepreneurial Chileans offer rides in their paddleboats and fishing boats – lots of little stands line the shores near the beach.

Playa Pucara, Lago Villarica, Villarica, Chile

Although it was much too hot to consider lying for long on these concrete beach chairs, they are a nice touch to the beautiful boardwalk park. The urban planners definitely knew their audience and came up with everything.

Playa Pucara, Lago Villarica, Villarica, Chile

Of course, the best part of Playa Pucara is its views of Volcán Villarica. Like many others, I rested for a while on the concrete stairs just to contemplate the views.

Street Art

Cool Street Art in Villarica, Chile

I have to admit – I was off my street art game during my visit to Villarica and only snapped a couple of pictures. While Pucón is fairly sterile, Villarica has more character and there are lots of murals to discover while walking through the streets. I wish I’d taken more pictures, but at least I started paying more attention as I kept traveling!

“Life is a parachute that doesn’t open until we rest in the earth” – Mural in Villarica, Chile

As you can see, Villarica is well-worth at least an afternoon during a visit to Araucanía and Pucón. Many guidebooks suggest staying in Villarica as a more relaxed alternative to Pucón, and I agree; Villarica caters towards Chilean tourists and it’s easy to walk around without feeling like someone is trying to sell you a tour or invite you into a pricey restaurant. Villarica definitely captivated my imagination with its laidback character and authentic charm, and hopefully someday I’ll be back!

Recommendations for Villarica, Araucanía, Chile:

First of all – GO! Most foreign tourists end up staying in nearby Pucón, whereas Chilean families gravitate towards Villarica. Because Villarica is a larger, more residential city, it does not give off that overwhelming tourist vibe, even though there are plenty of shops for artisan goods as well as museums.
Buses from Pucón to Villarica leave from Calle Palguín, across from the JAC bus terminal (if I remember correctly – double-check with a local!). Rides each way cost $1200 and buses leave every 10-15 minutes or so, making stops along the way to Villarica. The trip takes about 30 minutes and drops you off at the terminal in Villarica, located on Pedro de Valdivia between Anfión Muñoz and Gerónimo de Alderete.
Downtown Villarica is infinitely walkable, as you see from my photo of the map, above. Make sure to take time to wander around – there are lots of little specialty stores, artisan markets, and plenty of restaurants as well as cool cafés like the larger version of Huerto Azul. I chose not to eat there because I had already splurged on my Christmas meals back in Pucón. 😉
Make sure to walk down to the costanera all the way to Playa Pucara, as the views are truly stunning. I had a tough time narrowing down the photos for this post. Bring a beach towel or blanket and a book and be prepared to spend an afternoon enjoying the views. Don’t forget sunscreen – the sun is super strong reflected off the water.
Though I did not stay there nor check out the accommodations, Mapu Hostel probably would have been my lodging of choice if I had stayed in Villarica. If I go back, I will definitely stay in Villarica over Pucón!
All of the buses that leave Pucón and head north towards Santiago and south towards Patagonia pass through Villarica, so you could spend an afternoon there before taking a night bus.

[Villarica, Araucanía, Chile: December 26, 2015]

April 7, 2016

Pucón, Chile: Biking to Lago Caburgua and the Ojos de Caburgua (and Feeling Gratitude on My First Solo Christmas Day!)

Blue As Far As the Eye Can See at Playa Negra, Lago Caburgua, near Pucón, Chile

While Pucón is an attractive city worth a couple of days of relaxation, the real appeal of the region is the multitude of opportunities to participate in high-adrenaline adventure sports. Mountain climbing? Volcán Villarica is right there. Trekking? Several national parks are within your reach. Rafting? Some of the best rivers in Chile are a short drive away. Horseback riding? You can even go on a ride through Mapuche villages with a local guide.

With all of these options, the one that most appealed to me was biking. Back in Boston, I had become a serious urban biker, going on weekly adventures, but after moving to the Valle de Elqui, I had not managed to get my hands on a functional bike, except when traveling. For Christmas, I decided to take myself on a long bike ride to Lago Caburgua and the Ojos de Caburgua, beautiful waterfalls that cascade into aquamarine pools, the so-called ojos, or eyes.

Views over Río Trancura from Ruta S-905, between Pucón and Caburgua, Chile

As I’ve mentioned, Pucón and the surrounding area are very bike friendly. There are protected bike lanes along the main highway, assuring a safe beginning to any long distance bike journey and enabling you to build up confidence for the roads ahead. After renting a gorgeous new mountain bike from Freeride Pucón, I happily set off on my solo adventure in the gorgeous summer sun.

Views of Volcán Villarica from Ruta S-905, between Pucón and Caburgua, Chile

The guys in the bike shop suggested heading to Lago Caburgua first and taking the route along the paved highway, Ruta S-905. Although it involves a climb up a steep hill, the road is paved and that way you don’t spend all of your energy early in the day navigating dirt roads. I knew I wasn’t in top biking shape, so I was prepared to rest and walk as need be – which gave me a chance to take in the views of Volcán Villarica from a distance.

Lago Caburgua

Lago Caburgua from Playa Negra, Caburgua, Chile

After an hour or so of biking, I reached my first destination: Lago Caburgua. This incredibly blue lake is surrounded by low, rolling hills covered in green trees. Coupled with blue skies, basically everything takes on a tinge of blue. I LOVE BLUE!

Lizard at Playa Negra, Lago Caburgua, Chile

Because it was around lunchtime on Christmas Day, the beach was fairly empty, making it a peaceful place to have a picnic lunch and just take in the views. While eating my lunch, I spotted this lizard darting around and couldn’t resist taking a picture.

Playa Negra, Lago Caburgua, Caburgua, Chile

Playa Negra is the most accessible public beach on the shores of giant Lago Caburgua. At the time of my visit, a sizeable portion of the beachfront was under construction, ostensibly to install a malecón and visitor services (are we sensing a trend?). The small street passing by the beach was congested with vehicles, but it was easy to walk or bike in.

Playa Negra, Lago Caburgua, Caburgua, Chile

As at Playa Grande in Pucón, there are plenty of opportunities to take a spin out on the calm waters of Lago Caburgua. Paddle boats are pretty much my favorite way to explore lakes – looking at these photos makes me realize that I missed an opportunity!

Playa Negra, Lago Caburgua, Caburgua, Chile

Near Playa Negra, there is also the more exclusive Playa Blanca with its white sand beaches. The beach is only accessible by car and requires you to pay for parking in order to gain entrance. This makes it popular with Chilean families and a little bit quieter than the larger Playa Negra, but not worth including on my itinerary.

Playa Negra, Lago Caburgua, Caburgua, Chile

The town of Caburgua is relatively small and the tourist services are mostly located on the main highway as you enter the town and reach the lake. There are several restaurants for tourists located on the road that leads to the lake and a couple basic kiosks just off the beach. All in all, visiting Lago Caburgua enables you to spend a simple, pleasant day relaxing by the water.

Ojos de Caburgua

Fields on Route Towards Ojos de Caburgua

After a couple of hours enjoying the beachside views of Lago Caburgua, I decided it was time to head to my next destination, Ojos de Caburgua. The entrance to the series of waterfalls called Ojos de Caburgua is located off a dirt road detour between Pucón and Caburgua. To get there from Caburgua, I first had to retrace my steps along Ruta S-905, this time heading downhill. I ended up stopping to capture the lovely green fields along the way – did I mention I had been living in the desert for the past year? So much green was fascinating.

The detour is by “El Cristo” and is easy to spot as it’s the only major road marked by a number of advertisements for lodging options. As you turn off the road, you see the little garden chapel with Christ on the cross. I thought it was quite lovely. As you in the below photo, the detour is marked, but it’s hard to spot amongst all the foliage!

Little Chapel by “El Cristo,” between Pucón and Caburgua, Chile

After turning off the main highway, the road continues along a very bumpy dirt road which only allows one car to pass at a time (and that basically means one bike as well!). As I’ve primarily biked in urban areas, I found the dirt road challenging, but not impossible. I definitely understood why the bike rental shop had suggested going by highway first; I might have gotten discouraged otherwise.

Entrance to Campground at Ojos de Caburgua, between Pucón and Caburgua, Chile

The entrance to Ojos de Caburgua is well-signposted from the road, even giving an estimation of how many kilometers remain. To enter, you have to pay a modest entrance fee, and luckily they have bike racks for securing your bike. Since this is a high transit area, it’s better to leave the bike in a highly visible location than take it to the waterfalls, where it could get snatched.

This entrance to Ojos de Caburgua also has a campground, as seen above.

View of Volcán Villarica While Walking to Ojos de Caburgua

The Ojos de Caburgua are located about 2 kilometers from the main entrance on private property, and the landscape is lovely, even affording views of the majestic Volcán Villarica.

Ojos de Caburgua, between Pucón and Caburgua, Chile

Access to Ojos de Caburgua is by a series of trails and stairs, all leading towards the falls and the gorgeous aquamarine pools. The Ojos de Caburgua are set among Valdivia temperate rainforest, giving a completely different sense of the area than you get from the road. There are several vantage points affording a closer look at the system of waterfalls.

Views of Ojos de Caburgua, between Pucón and Caburgua, Chile

I spent about an hour appreciating the sound of the cascading water, climbing around the different trails to see other views of the waterfalls, and just taking in the cool shade of the tall trees.

Because there are so many visitors to the Ojos de Caburgua, it isn’t really a place to rest with a book and enjoy the landscape. After a while, I was ready to get back on my bike and keep experiencing the landscape of the hills, forests, and mountains around the area.
More Views of Ojos de Caburgua, between Pucón and Caburgua, Chile

Posing at Ojos de Caburgua, between Pucón and Caburgua, Chile

Of course, I couldn’t leave without taking a selfie!

Biking Back to Pucón from Ojos de Caburgua

Views from Ruta S-919, the road between Pucón and the Ojos de Caburgua

Along Ruta S-919, the gravel road between Pucón and Caburgua, there are lots of beautiful farmlands. While the urban area around Pucón is increasingly more popular with tourists, leading to more development, the region still maintains its laid-back vibe. This is just the ambiance of Araucanía – forests, fields, farming. That’s why it’s so popular among people just wanting to get away from their normal routine. Life moves a little more slowly here.

Views from Ruta S-919, the road between Pucón and Ojos de Caburgua

At this point in the late afternoon, I was getting tired, and the hilly gravel road was more challenging than I expected – though not impossible. At the same time, it was hard for me to gain momentum because I kept stopping to take pictures of the mountains and fields. Haha!

Panoramic View of the Fields Around Ruta S-919, the road between Pucón and Ojos de Caburgua

Naturally, these photos show the beautiful landscape, but they do not capture the feeling of biking through the forests and mountains, wind in my hair, just feeling dwarfed by the wonders of nature all around me.

Fields Off Ruta S-919, the road between Pucón and Ojos de Caburgua

For some reason, in Araucanía, I felt like the mountains enveloped me. As I biked, the views were just always so beautiful, forcing me to be really present, to really take it in, to really appreciate this moment of my life. As I’ve mentioned about my trip to Rapa Nui, and the sense of luck and love that accompanied me on my backpacking trip in 2013, travel can force you into these moments of clarity.

Lush Forest on Ruta S-919, the road between Pucón and Ojos de Caburgua

You realize that the decisions you have made in your life have led you here. You realize how lucky you are to be able to experience something so different than your reality – whether talking about my life in Boston or in the Valle de Elqui.

As I biked through the countryside of Araucanía on Christmas Day, these were the thoughts that floated through my mind. I have mentioned that I needed to clear my head, and I certainly did. There is nothing like appreciation and gratitude to remind you what’s important. I was where I needed to be – on a bike, surrounded by incredibly scenery, and feeling thankful.

Paved Road and Bridge Between Quelhue and Pucón, Chile

Despite these feelings of appreciation, the hilly, rocky road was bringing me to my physical limit. I was starting to be concerned that I wouldn’t make it back to Pucón without getting a ride, when suddenly I came out to a flat, even road. And it kept going – I had left the hills behind me! Before long, I made it back on to paved road and headed into the more populated urban landscape.

Snow-Capped Mountains Seen over Río Pucón, near Quelhue, Pucón, Chile

As I crossed over the bridge between Quelhue and Pucón, I noticed the amazing views – snow-capped mountains in the distance, lush green forests surrounding the river. I hopped off my bike and started snapping pictures of the views.

Mountains near Quelhue, near Pucón, Chile

Again, it’s difficult to convey the sense of awe, of being surrounded by the mountains that towered above me. The Mapuche village of Quelhue is located right by these hills, and I’m sure that’s no accident. The energy of these green mountains is powerful, even passing through.

Green Forests near Río Pucón, near Quelhue and Pucón, Chile

After taking in my last views of the river, mountains, and forests just outside Quelhue and Pucón, I headed back to the city to return my bike and eat a well-deserved (and much-needed!) Christmas dinner.

All in all, it had been a perfect solo Christmas Day: I spent the whole day cleansing my body with intense physical exercise, I got a chance to take in the blues of Lago Caburgua and listen to the powerful cascades at Ojos de Caburgua, and I reconnected with my sense of awe and gratitude while biking through the landscapes of rural Araucanía. Upon my return to Pucón, I treated myself to a generous Christmas dinner at Trawen and headed back to the hostel to call my family. I had been nervous about spending the holiday alone – but it ended up being amazing.

Recommendations for Biking to Lago Caburgua and Ojos de Caburgua:

The best bike rental shop in Pucón is Freeride Pucón – they have the latest bikes, keep them well-maintained, and provide everything you need for a safe bike ride.
Make sure to bring snacks and water – the sun is strong in this area and the hills can be challenging. You need fuel!
While more experienced or aggressive mountain bikers may want to head to Ojos de Caburgua directly via the long, hilly dirt road, I suggest doing what the bike rental shop told me and heading to Lago Caburgua first. After leaving Pucón, you follow Ruta Internacional along the bike path until reaching Ruta S-905, heading towards Caburgua. The road is steep at times, but even with a few stints of walking I made good time.
In Caburgua, you can eat typical Chilean food like empanadas at tourist restaurants, buy snacks at the lakefront kiosks, or enjoy a picnic lunch as I did. Make sure to buy more water if you need it – there’s nowhere else to get some besides Ojos de Caburgua.
To get to Ojos de Caburgua, you head downhill towards the turnoff to El Cristo, very clearly signposted. If you’re nervous about missing it, use Google Maps – these roads are all clearly marked and it’s hard to get lost.
Entry to Ojos de Caburgua costs $1000CLP and is worth it – the falls are beautiful and the trails are well-maintained.
Don’t forget to pay attention as you get closer to Quelhue – the surrounding landscape is beautiful.
If you visit in the summer, make sure to save time to visit the Feria Costumbrista Kui Kui, showcasing Mapuche foods in Quelhue. I didn’t go but it looks like it was amazing!

[Caburgua, Araucanía, Chile: December 25, 2015]

March 31, 2016

Pucón, Chile: Termas Geométricas, the Luxury Hot Springs Hidden in the Mountains near Coñaripe

Termas Geométricas, near Pucón and Coñaripe, Chile

I’ve started getting into hot springs, thermal baths, aguas termales, whatever you want to call them. My interest started back in 2013, when I visited the Termas de Cacheuta, near Mendoza, Argentina. Even in the winter temperatures, I tried the outdoor pools, and then headed indoors to ease myself into the progressively hotter baths, gradually making it into the very hottest bath, said to be excellent for your health.

This past year, I realized just how nice it was to feel warmed to your bones during a cold winter by soaking in the medicinal (and muddy) waters of Mamiña, near Iquique, Chile. I followed that up with the high altitude baths of Termas de Puchuldiza. At the end of the year, I brought the volunteers to a lovely end-of-year retreat at Refugio El Molle in the Valle de Elqui, where we soaked in super hot mineral waters heated by wood-burning fires. I’m hooked.

Entrance to Termas Geométricas, near Pucón

So when I headed to Pucón and started asking about the top activities in the area, Termas Geométricas came highly recommended – and with an equally high price tag. Besides the pricey entrance fee, as you see above, you pay another $10000CLP or so for the tour, or really, transportation. Visiting Termas Geométricas is a financial commitment, and an all day activity.