Category: Peru

August 16, 2016

Tumbes, Peru: Ancient Ruins at Cabeza de Vaca and Tumbes, the Tropical Border City

Plaza de Armas, Tumbes, Peru

The first time I visited Tumbes, I passed through the city around 4AM after a full day of travel through Ecuador. I’d left Baños on a bus to Cuenca, and as soon as I arrived in Cuenca, I booked a ticket on a night bus to Piura, Peru. After all I’d read about a dangerous border crossing between Huaquillas, Ecuador and Tumbes, Peru, I was a little wary of crossing in the middle of the night, but it turned out my research was outdated. The border crossing complex is modern, well-lit, and super simple: you get stamped out of one country and into another in the same room!

So my first experience of Tumbes was subconscious, as I fitfully slept on a hot, stuffy night bus until the bus attendant shook us gringos awake, thinking we were heading to Máncora like most foreign tourists. In any case, since I had missed exploring Tumbes and Piura on my first pass-through, I was determined to give Tumbes a chance to win me over me with its tropical charm, like my beloved Tarapoto.

Corrales and Cabeza de Vaca (Fortaleza de Tumpis)

Cabeza de Vaca / Fortaleza de Tumpis, Corrales, Tumbes, Peru

And win me over it did. As I researched my trip, I discovered that Tumbes is actually home to a massive pre-Incan complex of ruins pertaining to the Tumpis culture from this region. Located close to the ocean in a strategic position between the jungles of what is now Ecuador and northern Peru, the coastal desert, and the high Andes, this was an excellent place to construct a ceremonial and administrative center. So much so that the Incas took over the site when they grew their empire.

Cabeza de Vaca / Fortaleza de Tumpis, Corrales, Tumbes, Peru

Despite the importance of this site in Peru’s pre-Colombian history, Cabeza de Vaca, also known as the Fortaleza de Tumpis, only was declared a national heritage site in 2000. Like many other desert ruins, the sand has covered the secrets of this temple and it’s hard to visually appreciate its former grandeur, unlike the massive rock structures of the Incas.

On top of that, Cabeza de Vaca is located in the Corrales district of Tumbes, which is a struggling community (much like Huaycán, where I volunteered in 2012-3). As in many parts of Peru, including Huaycán, this community has grown through land invasions. This means that many homes are actually built on top of the less obvious sections of the ruins, and it’s hard for the ministry of culture to protect them from damage.

Cabeza de Vaca / Fortaleza de Tumpis, Corrales, Tumbes, Peru

Because the ruins are only beginning to be excavated, studied, and understood, it is challenging for archeologists and the ministry of culture to get funding to protect the ruins as well as continue the investigation. There are many secrets beneath these layers of earth, but it is a painstaking process to understand why.

As you can see in this image, the interesting aspect of these ruins is that you can watch the process of excavation and see what new discoveries are being turned up as archeologists uncover and descend into deeper, better protected layers.

You end up seeing something like this, some sort of canal. The early cultures understood how to construct canals in the most ingenious ways, and these ruins also have an extensive system. If you notice the walls in these photos, the brickwork is very different, suggesting the different eras of construction.

Unfortunately for me, the most recent excavations – and according to my guide, some of the most interesting – were actually being protected from the El Niño phenomenon and its rains by these tarps, so there wasn’t much to see. I’d be curious to return on a future visit to see how work has progressed.

From the vantage point of these ruins located on one of the few hills in the area, you can see the expanses of fields being toasted by the desert sun. Further west you run into the ocean and the mangroves. And that’s the Panamerican Highway as it passes through northern Peru, just a simple two-lane highway in these parts.

After my tour, we headed back to the museum to see some of the relics that have been uncovered during investigations. These shards of pottery do not look like much, but they are painted reminders of the ceremonial importance of this site.

The most interesting piece in the museum, for me, was this fragment of adobe painted in what is very clearly the chakana, or Inca cross, a symbol common in artwork found throughout the Andes. The colors on this piece are quite vibrant given the passage of time, and as I’ve learned through my travels, desert ruins that were painstakingly painted in this fashion had deep ceremonial significance.

All in all, I enjoyed my brief but fascinating visit to Cabeza de Vaca, and I highly suggest that you make time to get here if you’re enjoying the beaches of northern Peru. It’s super easy to get to the ruins on public transportation – you get off any shared van at the crossroads to Corrales and hop in a mototaxi to the ruins. I provide more information in my recommendations, below.

City of Tumbes

After visiting Cabeza de Vaca, I wanted to head into Tumbes to get to know the city and buy my return ticket to Lima. From Corrales, I took a mototaxi to Corrales’ main plaza, where I got another combi heading directly into Tumbes. By this time, I was starving, so I wandered around the main plaza looking for a restaurant with an appealing vegetarian option.

Completely by accident, I stumbled upon a vegetarian restaurant! There is usually one vegetarian restaurant in every significant Peruvian city, and I find it’s a great way to get a sense of regional food tastes.

Amusingly, I happened to get the last table in the restaurant, and so when a pair of relatives came in right behind me, I offered to let them sit at my table. Turns out it was their first experience with vegetarian food, and probably their first experience eating with a gringa in Tumbes!

Sufficiently fueled, I continued wandering around the streets of Tumbes. The city center is compact and straightforward, so it is a pleasant place to spend the afternoon wandering around. The church on the plaza is pretty unique in construction style and reflects the colorful tastes of this region.

Here’s another view of the Plaza de Armas, where you can see its colorful, unique arches. The inscription reads “Tumbes, cradle of South America’s petroleum wealth,” celebrating a major industry in these parts. Some of the buildings surrounding the plaza are relics from the colonial days – in the distance, you can see the balconies that are reminiscent of Spanish-style architecture.

Behind the plaza, there is a raised pedestrian walkway where you can get views of the brown river and the bridge that leads into the city. This bridge gets a lot of traffic as it is part of the Ruta Panamericana.

You can see that the plaza was pretty empty due to the hot summer sun and humidity – everyone was hiding out in the more shady parts in the distance!

My favorite part of the plaza was this amazing mosaic built into the band shell right on the plaza. I was fascinated by its symbolism, really representing the spirit of the region.

As I wrote in my Instagram post, this mosaic is called “Encuentro de Dos Mundos,” a slightly nicer way to say “Two Worlds Collide.” In this detail shot you can see the force of Chilimasa, chief of the Tumpis, resisting the Spanish colonizer in the battles among the lush landscape of the mangroves in Tumbes.

This same spirit of resisting, surviving, and gathering strength continues today throughout Peru.

Last but not least, Tumbes has a lovely pedestrian walkway that runs along the church where you can also take in the widely varying architecture, do some shopping, and buy some fruit, as I did (mangos are amazing in this region!). Interestingly, this part of the city is pretty peaceful considering the chaos back on the Panamerican just a couple of blocks away.

Near here, you can catch a bus to Puerto Pizarro, one of the fishing bays and beaches located close by. Puerto Pizarro is also one of the most common gateways to the mangroves, although I went on a tour from Puerto 25.

As you can see, Tumbes is a great place to spend an afternoon getting to know a different aspect of Peruvian culture. I would have spent more time there, but I was looking forward to watching my last sunset in Zorritos.

Recommendations for Tumbes, Peru:

If you have time in your travel itinerary, make some time to get to know Tumbes and the surrounding area. Most travelers skip Tumbes and head directly to Máncora, but Tumbes can help broaden your perspective on life in this region. I suggest staying in Zorritos, located about 30 minutes from Tumbes, and using that as your base.
Tumbes is the first city you reach when crossing the border from Ecuador at Huaquillas. Contrary to the outdated information you may find in your Google search, the border crossing is now totally secure and easy as long as you have a through bus from Ecuador to Tumbes or Piura. Tumbes is a border city so it has its pockets of unsafe areas, but downtown Tumbes is perfectly safe to wander around and quite a pleasant place to spend an afternoon.
To visit the mangroves near Tumbes, you can catch a colectivo to Puerto Pizarro from the center of Tumbes at the stop shown in Google Maps. Although I didn’t visit myself, the locals I ate lunch with said it was well worth a visit. Personally, I visited the mangroves on a guided tour from Puerto 25, arranged by my hostel. That was totally worth it as well to see such a fascinating ecosystem.
If you have any interest in pre-colonial, pre-Incan cultures, visit Cabeza de Vaca, also known as the Fortaleza de Tumpis, located in the district of Corrales on the outskirts of Tumbes. Note that Corrales is a developing community or shantytown where many homes have been built through land invasions, but as long as you don’t flash your camera or other symbols of wealth around, it’s perfectly safe. To get there, take a shared van to the crossroads of Corrales and find a mototaxi to take you to the ruins. It should cost S/.2-3.
When you leave Cabeza de Vaca, you just walk back to the main road and flag down another mototaxi to head to the plaza of Corrales (if you’re going to Tumbes), or to the Panamerican, if you’re hoping to head back towards Zorritos or the beaches in Piura. The bus from Corrales to Tumbes costs S/.1 and runs frequently.
As I mentioned above, Cabeza de Vaca is still seeking funding for its excavation and protection, and more tourist visits can help with this process. There is not too much visible, but it’s worth it if you’re interested in learning more about pre-Incan cultures.
The vegetarian restaurant in Tumbes is located on Francisco Bolognesi, across from Alfonso Ugarte street, before you get to Piura. During the lunch hour, there is a chalkboard out front with the lunch specials and that’s how you know it’s a vegetarian restaurant – it says “Restaurante vegetariano.”
The Paseo Jerusalem is a lovely pedestrian walkway continuing to the park. All around Tumbes there are lovely mosaics and artistically constructed stone buildings and overpasses. It’s a pretty fascinating city to walk around.
You can catch a van back to Zorritos or onward to Máncora from the Panamerican, but it’s a hectic street so you might want to ask a local for some help.
If you’re traveling to Lima, I suggest Civa, whose office in Tumbes is located on the Panamerican. You can get on the bus in Tumbes or in any of the beach towns along the way. They have a vegetarian menu and the food on the route from Tumbes was generous – a giant tortilla with plantains and rice, yum!

[Tumbes, Peru: February 2, 2016]

August 12, 2016

Piura, Peru: Cabo Blanco, a Famous Fishing Village & Surf Paradise with Amazing Tubular Waves

Back in the 1950s, Cabo Blanco was not just any fishing village in northern Peru. Cabo Blanco was a tiny little town very clearly marked on the map as a see-and-be-seen destination for all the famous celebrities of the time – Marilyn Monroe, Paul Newman, Spencer Tracy, Doris Day and so on. Why was that, exactly?

Well, in those days, Cabo Blanco was a fisherman’s paradise. Its unique location at the intersection of the El Niño and Humboldt currents keep the waters temperate year-round, which enabled plankton to grow, anchovies to feed on it, and so on and so forth, inviting giant black marlins. We’re talking big game. REALLY big. Naturally, I was curious to learn a little more about the history of place for myself.

When I started dreaming up my plan to visit the beaches of northern Peru, Cabo Blanco became a must-see destination. Already in love with tiny fishing villages after my visit to tranquil Tortugas the year before, I wanted to imagine Cabo Blanco’s former glory and check out its fascinating left breaking wave.

Although visiting Cabo Blanco is an all-day affair due to its isolated location, it’s straightforward. If you’re coming from Tumbes, take a combi van to Máncora, where you’ll catch another bus to El Alto. (From elsewhere in Piura, just head directly to El Alto.) On the way, you’ll climb up to the high desert cliffs and get these amazing views.

El Alto is a typical industrial desert city which produces a good percentage of Peru’s oil, which makes it a pretty well-to-do city. I didn’t see much while there (I lived in the desert for a year after all), but rather continued my mission to Cabo Blanco, hopping into this combi van.

After about 20 minutes, you enter Cabo Blanco, which is basically a charming one-street town with a handful of restaurants, a couple of lodging options, and, well, a giant fish processing plant. (I’ve never been a huge fan of modern Peruvian construction, what can I say? Urban planning is not a thing here.)

As you enter the town, you get a giant visual reminder of Cabo Blanco’s glory days. This was the world record catch of big game fish – 1560 pounds! Well, you won’t see anything like that these days; the giant marlin no longer head to these shores, a combination of overzealous sport fishing and commercial harvesting of the anchovies that the drew them there in the first place.

But that’s okay. Cabo Blanco is worth a visit anyway. Like nearby Punta Sal, Cabo Blanco’s draw is that it’s an isolated, attractive beach, with a fair amount of local color mixed in. But far from the exclusive days of the past, it now has simple accommodations which are starting to cater to a new population: surfers.

That’s right: surfers. Check out this incredible tubular wave. This is the longest left break in the world. I don’t know much about surfing, but I stood for quite a while just watching this tube wave break again and again. So cool!

And with few people there besides the locals, it’s a pleasant place to hang out and enjoy the beaches. Peru’s tourism board has talked from time to time about restoring Cabo Blanco to its old glory and boosting the economy for locals, but I didn’t see much evidence of that.

As I wandered up and down the beach, enjoying the sunshine that peeked out from behind the near-constant clouds during my trip, I spotted the tourist information office and stumbled into one of the best parts of my day.

The friendly woman staffing the tiny tourist information office had been born and raised in Cabo Blanco and had left to continue her studies in tourism at university. But she had returned to do an internship in her hometown, determined to raise the tourist profile of this attractive town. She spoke at length about the history of Cabo Blanco, showing me pictures of Ernest Hemingway, who had stayed there while writing The Old Man and the Sea, and other relics from the era when marlin fishing was king.

Over the years I’ve spent in Peru, I’ve met a number of informed, intelligent people in the tourist information offices who are determined to share the culture of their country, and this young woman impressed me with her motivation to study English and her understanding of how the youth of the town can begin to imagine another future away from commercial fishing. I was sincerely moved by her story and her dreams.

Thankfully, she’s not alone in her desire to improve life in Cabo Blanco. After the famous surf company Billabong hosted an annual surf competition in Cabo Blanco (which had happened the month prior to my visit), Peruvian surfers donated part of their prize money to furthering studies of the ecological system here. The Inkaterra organization has led initiatives towards marine conservation. Bringing ecotourism opportunities to Cabo Blanco could have a positive impact on the local population, both human and marine!

But for now, it’s worth visiting Cabo Blanco to enjoy its quiet beaches. This guy even got involved in the fun!

Personally, I could totally understand why Ernest Hemingway used this location as a writing retreat. If I were writing a book, I wouldn’t mind hanging out here and being inspired by these giant waves. (To some extent, it reminds me of Pablo Neruda’s home in Isla Negra.)

And as for the Cabo Blanco Fishing Club, the exclusive hotel and resort where celebrities used to hang out? Well, I didn’t quite make it there, but it’s on the other side of this cliff, about 2km away from the rest of the town. Check out the links in my recommendations below to see the strangely fascinating state of the abandoned property.

In late afternoon, the surfers came out, getting ready to catch the waves. Just another day in this sleepy fishing village. But you don’t have to be a surfer or a sport fisherman to appreciate Cabo Blanco. It suited me just fine.

Recommendations for Cabo Blanco, Piura, Peru:

If you’re looking for a quiet place to spend the day on the beach that also has easy access to restaurants and tourist facilities, Cabo Blanco is the place for you. There are accommodations including a hostel that appeared to cater towards surfers, and you can probably camp on the beach.
To get to Cabo Blanco, take a Eppo bus from Máncora or Piura to El Alto. It cost S/.2.50 each way in February 2016. From there, ask someone to point you towards the nearby parking lot where the van shuttles leave for Cabo Blanco. It’s basically across the street but not immediately obvious as the pathway is down an alleyway between buildings. They cost S/.3 each way if I remember correctly.
If you want to visit Cabo Blanco Fishing Club, you can walk there but I wasn’t comfortable going alone. You can see pictures in this blog post and this Daily Mail article. I read that the hotel is in more decay than that now, with conflicting reports that it’s going to be restored.
For a little more information about surfing in Cabo Blanco (and the rest of northern Peru), try this blog post. PBS has an interesting article on the giant black marlin and what happened to them. And here’s another nice blog post on the appeal of Cabo Blanco.

[Cabo Blanco, Piura, Peru: February 1, 2016]

August 10, 2016

Tumbes, Peru: Punta Sal, its Pristine Beaches & Exclusive Coastal Community

When you think of luxurious beach resorts in northern Peru, what comes to mind first? If you’re like most Limeños, you think of Punta Sal. You might head to nearby Máncora for a night on the town or a fancy meal, but the truly exclusive stretch of beach in these parts is Punta Sal.

Many years ago, Punta Sal was the secret getaway for rich Limeños, who were able to invest in building vacation homes on beachfront properties, and over time a number of luxury hotels have sprung up along the coastline. Because the area occupied by Punta Sal is so expansive, there plenty of resorts located away from the crowds, a quick drive or taxi ride away from the center of town.

The good news for travelers like myself is that Punta Sal’s magic is easily accessible and available for people of all budgets. It’s against the law to prohibit access to water and carve away private beaches, so these long stretches of sand are open game for visitors.

Even still, Punta Sal does require a commitment to visit. If you have a car, life is easier; you can drive down to the waterfront, passing through a security control as you leave the Panamerican Highway.

If you’re coming on public transportation like me, don’t worry, there are plenty of mototaxis and shared colectivo taxis waiting to take us down to the water. The frequent shuttles between Tumbes and Máncora pass right by the entrance to Punta Sal.

Although there are miles and miles upon MILES of accessible coastline throughout northern Peru (as well as several beaches like Canoas de Punta Sal that are close to the highway and perfectly nice places to spend an afternoon), I suggest you check out Punta Sal for yourself. You can hang out with the crowds right at the entrance to the beach, or you can do what I did and spend about 30 minutes wandering down the coast, accessing your own exclusive beaches.

As you keep walking past the vacation homes, you’ll see only a couple of hotels along the way, and then suddenly, you’ll just see the cliffs behind you. But if you’re like me, you’ll be paying more attention to the beautiful pristine ocean views spreading out in front of you.

Although this region is known for its year-round sunny skies, the El Niño phenomenon meant there were a lot of clouds during my visit, but thankfully, the skies started to clear as the day went on and I was able to appreciate the sunshine and blue skies.

There are lovely pockets of rocks where you can relax in the warm pools of water, as the gentle waves flow over you. It was here that I ran into a friendly couple saying they’d found their throne, and asking me to snap a picture of them appreciating this natural luxury. For the record there were only about five people on this stretch of beach!

Continuing along my way, I chose to just observe the vastness of the ocean. I watched the seabirds flying over the water and waded into the water. For some reason, when I travel, I appreciate this sense of near-isolation, as it provides me a chance to truly take in and appreciate our natural surroundings and the wide, wide world we live in.

Seriously, is this an exclusive beach or what? You could spend the whole day just listening to the waves crash on the shore while reading a book in the soft sand.

Awww! I thought this little guy was so adorable. I forget his name in Spanish, but it translates to something like “useless crab” because he’s not one of the ones worth eating! This photo also shows you just how amazingly fine the sand is. This makes the beach pretty pristine!

As you can see from this photo, I was pretty joyful wandering along the shore, enjoying the privacy of an exclusive beach all to myself.

While I was soaking it all in, the couple I met earlier caught up to me and invited me to have lunch with them in their family’s beach house! Yet another one of those random travel opportunities, and a chance to experience the luxury of Peruvian beach culture from the inside. As I mentioned on Instagram, I felt rejuvenated from hearing the stories of people two and three times my age and connecting for a brief moment in time.

After a lovely afternoon on the beaches of Punta Sal, it was time to head back to my hostel in Zorritos. I was totally smitten with Punta Sal’s more hidden corners. If you decide to visit, be sure to leave the main stretch of beach and keep on walking to the sandy white beaches just a short wander away.

Recommendations for Punta Sal, Tumbes, Peru:

Although I was not a fan of overrated Máncora, I would still argue that it’s worth visiting Punta Sal. Unless you’re staying in one of the luxury resorts right in Punta Sal, you’ll probably base yourself in Máncora, or, if you’re like me, Zorritos to the north. There are frequent van shuttles (combis) that run between Tumbes and Máncora, as well as some that do the shorter, more lucrative run just between Punta Sal and Máncora. Just wait for a bus on the Panamerican Highway.
To enter Punta Sal, get off your bus at the entrance shown in the photo below. There are mototaxis waiting to take you down to the beachfront that cost about S./3. You’ll have to pass a security checkpoint, just a way to keep that exclusive feeling within the community.
The mototaxi will drop you off at the main entrance to the beach. Although I didn’t spend much time wandering around the main part of town, I noticed a number of restaurants and other shops. Walking food vendors are technically not allowed on the beach so you’ll have to head into town to buy a snack.
As I have mentioned a few times, be sure to walk beyond the main section of public beach in the direction of Máncora, past the resorts and vacation homes, and get to the wide open stretches of beaches with very few visitors. It only takes about 30 minutes to walk that far but the pristine sand is totally worth it!
There are several other beaches in the area. The exclusive resorts are located to the north of the public beach and even have their own special entrance. You can also reach the beachfront by stopping in Canoas de Punta Sal, also known as Cancas, and you’ll notice that Tumbes locals tend to enjoy the beaches there. They aren’t too crowded, are right off the Panamerican, and there are lots of small shops on the route. You can see a map and some information about entry points (in Spanish) here.
If you’re looking for another amazing beach without having to go this far north, I highly recommend visiting Tortugas near Casma, Peru.
Just FYI: When you enter the department of Tumbes north of Máncora, you will go through a immigration/customs checkpoint. If your van happens to be stopped, you will need to show ID and they will ask for your immigration card. Be sure to have it with you!

[Punta Sal, Tumbes, Peru: January 31, 2016]

Entrance to Punta Sal

August 4, 2016

Piura, Peru: Máncora, a Crowded Party Town Worth Skipping for Other Beaches in Northern Peru

Beach in Máncora, Piura, Peru

I tend to keep things positive here on Blueskylimit. There are so many other places on the internet where you can go to get your dose of negative opinions on perfectly nice tourist destinations. Here, I want to encourage you to invest your tourism dollars into the tiny little towns and family owned businesses that inspire me all over South America.

For that reason, I am going to share what my experience of Máncora was like and encourage you to visit Zorritos, Punta Sal, Cabo Blanco, or any other number of beaches in northern Peru instead.

Main Street in Máncora, Piura, Peru

I am sure that Máncora was once a beautiful fishing village with pristine white beaches that only drew the most dedicated surfers and intrepid travelers. In fact, it may have still had some of that vibe back in 2007 when I first heard about it. Well, those days are long gone.

Main Street in Máncora, Piura, Peru

Today, Máncora is a crowded, overpriced, loud, dirty stretch of roads, filled with party hostels and hustlers, drunk travelers, and half-built buildings that were either abandoned for lack of funds or kept in a constant state of construction for tax breaks.

Panamerican Highway in Máncora, Piura, Peru

I’m sure the beach is much more appealing on a sunny day, and if you go with a group of friends and you want easy access to pretty good food and plentiful alcohol, this may be the place for you. If you want to stay at some of the fanciest hostels in South America, where everything is provided on-site and you don’t have to leave, you might appreciate Máncora more than I did. Similarly, if you have access to expensive hotels with five star restaurants, your experience of Máncora will probably be much different than mine.

Beach in Máncora, Piura, Peru

But as your average solo traveler who has lost interest in the party scene, Máncora wasn’t for me. Not with miles and miles of gorgeous coastline to explore throughout Tumbes and Piura, and pristine beaches just a short colectivo ride away in nearby Punta Sal.

Sunken Boardwalk in Máncora, Piura, Peru

Instead of Máncora, why not visit the other amazing beaches that I’ll be describing in the following posts? Actually take some time to travel around Tumbes, visit the mangroves, and check out Cabeza de Vaca, one of the most important archeological sites in this region. Visit one of the cleaner, less crowded beaches near Máncora that are accessible on public buses and actually enjoy relaxing on the coast.

Beach in Máncora, Piura, Peru

To be completely fair, I went when El Niño was blanketing the coast in clouds, and I’m sure some sunshine would have brightened up the beaches and made them more appealing. But did you see that decaying boardwalk whose shoddy construction has made it sink into the sand, creating a hazard in the middle of the most popular, most accessible public beach?

No thanks, Máncora. Check out some of the other nearby beaches that I link to below.

Delicious Vegetarian Lunch at Angela’s Place, Máncora, Piura, Peru

Recommendations for Máncora, Piura, Peru:

I spent only a few hours in Máncora, just enough time to have lunch at the delicious vegetarian restaurant, Angela’s Place, and walk around the beach for a while.
Because of its popularity as a destination, Máncora has become a transit hub for the region, and the colectivo vans from Tumbes end their route in Máncora, where you’ll need to make a connection onward to El Alto, to visit Cabo Blanco, or to the city of Piura.
From the Panamerican highway in Máncora, you can catch direct colectivos to Punta Sal, a very popular day trip from Máncora (and one that is well worth the time). They will ride up and down the street looking for passengers, shouting out “Punta Sal.”
If you want to get away from the beaches of Máncora, Las Pocitas, Los Órganos, Vichayito, and Ñuro all came highly recommended. Los Órganos is easy to get to because the EPPO buses from Máncora have a station there. From the bus terminal, you can catch a colectivo or maybe even a mototaxi to the beaches.
Beyond Máncora, you can take an EPPO bus to El Alto, where you can catch a regularly running colectivo van to Cabo Blanco, one of the most beautiful beaches in the area. I’ll be writing more in an upcoming post.
If you really want to avoid Máncora but don’t want to head all the way north to Tumbes (though you totally should give Tumbes some time!), Lobitos is one of the most popular surfing towns in Piura, and Colán is also highly recommended by friends. You can access Lobitos from Talara and Colán from the city of Piura. Note that I haven’t been yet; they’re pending for a future trip!

[Máncora, Piura, Peru: January 28, 2016]

March 12, 2016

Casma, Peru: Relaxing in the Tranquility of the Secluded Fishing Cove of Tortugas

The Beautiful Fishing Cove of Tortugas, near Casma, Ancash, Peru

Tortugas is one of those places you want to share with everyone you know, while also being a little selfish and keeping its charm to yourself. With so much coastline along the Pacific ocean, there are lots of beaches to choose from when visiting Peru. Limeños flock to the beaches an hour or two south of the capital, like Punta Hermosa, Asia, and Pulpos, while foreigners often head north to the beaches of Piura and Tumbes, especially party-central, Máncora. The fishing village of Huanchaco, outside of Trujillo, is increasingly popular, especially among surfers, but what happens if you just want to relax and get away from the crowds?

Posing in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

That’s where Tortugas comes in. Tortugas is a small fishing village located around a beautiful bay in the department of Ancash. Ancash has a number of notable sites; beyond Casma and the ruins of Cerro Sechín, it is also home to the major archeological site, Chavín de Huantar, the city of Huaraz, and the amazing lakes and mountains of the Cordillera Blanca. With such popular neighbors, it’s no wonder that Tortugas remains a bit of a secret.

Tortugas first came on my radar back in 2013, where I came across a couple of articles naming Tortugas one of the most beautiful beaches in Peru and basically calling it paradise. My interest was piqued.

Setting Sun in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

After checking out the nearby ruins of Sechín, my friend Enzo and I boarded a combi (small bus) heading to Tortugas. The combis leave regularly from a parking lot right off the main plaza, and it takes about 20 minutes to get to Tortugas. The route takes you through the barren desert lining the main roads, no water to be seen anywhere, before finally reaching the turnoff and the long paved road to Tortugas, which is located about 2-3 kilometers from the Panamerican highway.

Fishing Boats at Dusk in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

It didn’t look like much as we approached, but then the combi came to a stop at the entrance to the town, right in front of the bay. We arrived just as the late afternoon sun was illuminating the hills surrounding the bay, coating everything with a golden glow. How could you not fall in love with this little village?

Sun Setting Over the Beautiful Bay of Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

We wandered up the main road, finding a restaurant that doubled as an hostal with rooms for rent in the back. After dropping off our things, we headed back outside to catch what ended up being a gorgeous sunset.

Sunset in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

Tortugas, which means turtles or tortoises in Spanish, received its name due to the quantity of the creature that used to swim in its waters one hundred years ago. Today, it is known for its beautiful views, relaxed environment, and plentiful ceviche. There are a number of restaurants and kiosks selling quick meals, but the town maintains its laid-back feel, catering mainly to those who have summer homes here and the occasional tourist.

Sunset in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

There’s not much to do in Tortugas besides take it easy and enjoy the views. We walked up and down the main road after nightfall, appreciating some downtime to talk about what had been happening in our lives over the past year. With a couple of playgrounds and plenty of viewpoints to sit and listen to the water, there is enough simple entertainment to enjoy a relaxing evening.

Fishing Boats in Casma, Ancash, Peru

After a good night’s sleep, we woke up early to enjoy some time in the water before heading back to Casma. In the morning light, I saw the visual appeal of Tortugas: the water is incredibly clear and a shade of gorgeous shimmering blue.

Malecón in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

We retraced our steps of the night before, walking further away from the center of town to get a nice view of the entire bay. From this vantage point, you see just how many buildings have sprung up around the base of the mountains, but there is enough space for everyone, no high rise hotels blocking the view.

Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

The water in Tortugas is incredibly warm, making swimming super pleasant. As I waded into the water, I had one of those special moments that I still remember today, appreciating the reality of being somewhere lovely, in good company, where everything is perfectly okay. I felt lucky to have the chance to get to know Tortugas before beginning my new job later that month.

Adorable Hospedaje (Lodging) in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

The Fishing Village of Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

After a pleasant stroll around the perimeter of Tortugas, we headed back to the center of town to get our things and catch a bus back to Casma. It was a good thing we got up early, as we managed to see the clear blue skies illuminating the cove; the coastal clouds began to roll in as we were leaving.

Fishing Boat in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

As you can see, Tortugas is a postcard of tranquility, a nice escape from the crowded beaches elsewhere along the coast, and well worth a visit if you are passing through Casma en route to Chimbote, Huaraz, or Trujillo. This is a place to plan to spend a couple of days relaxing, taking in the incredibly warm waters of the bay, and reading by the water or catching up with friends or family. It might be even a nice place for a do-it-yourself writing or meditation retreat, or a place to spend quiet time with your partner if you need to reconnect away from the distractions of the city.

Playground in Tortugas, Ancash, Peru

Tortugas is one of my favorite small towns in Peru and is an easy trip from Lima. While its charm comes from the fact that it is quiet and uncomplicated by the tourism industry, it deserves a visit from independent travelers looking to experience coastal Peru as locals do.

Recommendations for Tortugas, Ancash, Peru:

Tortugas is located near Casma, a small coastal city located just off the Panamerican highway. To get to Casma from Lima, you can take a bus from Plaza Norte; Erick El Rojo and 3 Estrellas are two commonly used bus companies. For other potential transportation options, please read my post on Sechín, the archeological site just outside of Casma.
Once in Casma, there are combis (small buses) and colectivos (shared taxis) which leave from a parking lot just off the Plaza de Armas in Casma, near the municipality building. Ask anyone to point you towards the buses for Tortugas. The bus cost about S/. 4 in January 2015; the current cost should be posted on the front windshield of the bus. The bus ride takes about 20 minutes and takes you along the Panamericana before turning towards Tortugas and heading the 2 kilometers towards the water.
There are several hostales and hospedajes in Tortugas, many of which are attached to restaurants. Around the new year, camping on the beach is also common; this is a low-budget destination for many Peruvian families and groups of friends.
There are several restaurants serving all kinds of fish, especially ceviche, but if you want something a little more budget friendly, there are several outdoor food stands located up in the residential area. This is also where the buses back to Casma leave from, and a good place to buy fresh fruit.
The weather in Casma is warm, and the water of the bay is incredibly pleasant. Make sure to bring your bathing suit!

[Tortugas, Ancash, Peru: January 8-9, 2015]

March 11, 2016

Casma, Peru: The Ruins of Cerro Sechín on the Northern Coast of Peru

Ruins of Cerro Sechín, Near Casma, Ancash, Peru

When I decided to spend a couple of weeks in Lima before moving to Chile, I knew I wanted to take advantage of my completely open schedule and sneak up the coast to Casma. I had read about the ruins at Sechín in Hugh Thomson’s fascinating book, A Sacred Landscape, and was curious about the gruesome carvings depicting beheadings, sacrifices, and soldiers. I hadn’t managed to make it there in 2013 so didn’t want to miss this opportunity to get back into the travel mode. I’d also heard that the nearby beach of Tortugas is one of the most beautiful in Peru, and decided to kill two birds with one stone.

Casma is located about five hours north of Lima in the province of Ancash, but it can take some work to find a bus company that actually stops in Casma rather than continuing up the coast to Trujillo or inland to Huaraz. Alternatively, there are combis that hit the major towns on the coast and you should be able to find one that heads to Casma by stopping in one of the transit towns like Supe or Barranca. (More travel information in my recommendations, below.) The ride up the Panamericana passes the entrance to Caral, and the scenery is consistent with the northern coast; the sea to one side, sandy desert hills to the other.

Museum at the Ruins of Sechín, Ancash, Peru

It’s worth mentioning that there are three archeological sites in the area: Cerro Sechín, which is commonly referred to as as Sechín, as well as Sechín Alto and Sechín Bajo, which are being studied but are not easily visited by casual tourists. There is also the Río Sechín, so it may help to specify “El Templo” (the Temple) or “El Museo” (the Museum) when discussing your destination.

Archeological Relics in the Museum at Sechín, Ancash, Peru

The archeological site of Cerro Sechín is located about 6 kilometers from Casma, and the easiest way to get there is to find a mototaxi willing to take you out to the site. At the site, the friendly guards directed us to the museum, where we paid our entrance fee and toured the sparse museum containing relics gathered from the major sites located in the area.

Landscape Around the Ruins of Sechín, Ancash, Peru

From there, we walked over to the small set of ruins, following a well constructed pathway which provides great views of the surrounding landscape. As in Trujillo and Chiclayo to the north, there are broad fields of green trees and patches of empty brown desert mountains. Taking in the scenery, I was reminded of how much I love northern Peru.

Ruins of Sechín, Ancash, Peru

The site of Sechín itself is very small and still under investigation. My friend Enzo and I were the only ones touring the ruins in the late afternoon sun, though we could observe a number of workers going about their daily routines below.

Posing at the Viewpoint above Sechín, Ancash, Peru

Although it’s challenging to make out to the untrained eye, archeologists have determined that the site has one main building, surrounded by stones, and filled in the center with adobe structures.

Pathway At Cerro Sechín and Its Views

The hill above the site once had other residential or administrative buildings, which have been destroyed by heavy rains over the centuries.

Workers Finishing Up for the Day at the Ruins of Sechín

After completing our circuit around and above the ruins, we descended to get up close to the elaborate carvings depicting intriguing ancient ceremonies.

Carvings at Cerro Sechín Leading to the Entrance to the Temple

The images that line the entrance to the temple represent human figures, most likely warriors or perhaps priests, involved in what appears to be a fierce battle. None of the figures represent gods or other mythical creatures: just humans.

Carvings at Cerro Sechín, Ancash, Peru

While some of the figures possess their entire bodies, there are also many disembodied heads and all kinds of body parts, leading many researchers to suggest that these carvings describe human sacrifice. Other ideas are that they record violent combats experienced by the Sechín culture, or even that all these different images of various appendages could represent a medical encyclopedia.

Disembodied Head Carving at the Ruins of Cerro Sechín, Ancash, Peru

Whatever the story, the figures show gritted teeth and swollen eyes, what appears to be blood or energy flowing out of their heads, grimaces and signs of suffering.

In these photos, you can see some of the body parts, some of the complete figures carrying what appears to be weapons or holy staffs, and examples of the faces both in profile and head on. There are so many images that it’s difficult to really observe all of them, especially in the brutal sun of the northern desert.

These images are located within pathways that appear to continue around the perimeter of the temples, telling stories. One big question mark for me after my visit is that these walls appear to be reconstructed.

I’m not sure if these monoliths were found standing independently, and then archeologists reinforced the structures with like-colored stones and adobe, or if the walls had crumbled. I know from my visit to Caral that reconstructing original structures is a painstaking, detail-oriented process, and I learned at Chan Chan in Trujillo that previous preservation attempts actually meant re-carving and replicating the original images, which had deteriorated from the adobe walls after years of rain and wind.

Posing at the Ruins of Cerro Sechín, Ancash, Peru

We wandered through the perimeter pathways, taking in all the different variations on what appeared to be quite a violent theme. I laugh when I see the photos of myself posing there because I appear to be enjoying my visit to what historically was likely a gruesome site.

There is a lot to take in, and I applaud the authorities for making the images accessible to visitors even as they continue to study the ruins and unearth more information about what took place here.

Entrance to the Palace at Cerro Sechín, Ancash, Peru

The visit ends in front of the entrance to the palace, which is off-limits to visitors. According to this fascinating article (in Spanish), the inside of the palace has painted adobe walls displaying images of fish, particularly carnivorous ones, as well as shamans and dead or dying human figures. These images suggest some sort of connection with worship of the sea or concern regarding rainfall in this desert climate.

Mototaxis Waiting at the Entrance to Cerro Sechín

In any case, my brief visit left me wanting more information about these ruins and the nearby sites of Sechín Alto and Sechín Bajo. (There are a couple of displays giving basic information about these archeological sites near the small parking lot where these mototaxis were waiting.) While many of the carvings have characteristics in common with the more well-known Chavín culture, represented in great detail at Chavín de Huantar (blog post forthcoming!), it has been determined that Sechín came much earlier. Visiting Sechín helped me place these ruins in my mental timeline of the pre-Incan cultures that once inhabited Peru.

Heading Back to Casma from Cerro Sechín

After finding the last mototaxi not waiting for one of the workers at Sechín, we headed back to Casma, enjoying the wind blowing in our faces as we passed through the agricultural fields along the hills.

Plaza of Casma, Ancash, Peru

Back in Casma, we took a stroll through the pleasant plaza, grabbed a quick snack, and looked for the combis that would take us to Tortugas, a fishing village known for its beautiful bay. We had finished appreciating on of Peru’s ancient cultures for the day, and it was time to relax by the water.

Recommendations for Sechín, Ancash, Peru:

To get to Casma from Lima, take a bus to Casma using the company Erick El Rojo, which leaves from the Plaza Norte bus terminal in Lima. You can get to the bus terminal using the Metropolitano, so it’s pretty straightforward. In 2015, the buses left Lima at 7:30AM, 9AM, and 11AM, but you should definitely double check the schedule. Bring snacks – there is often traffic on the highway the bus stops frequently in urban areas to pick up more passengers.
Alternatively, you can try taking a bus that is heading to Chimbote, Trujillo, or Huaraz and asking the driver to let you off at the crossroads to Casma. From there, you can take a mototaxi to Casma or to the ruins of Sechín.
Your last option would be to take a bus or combi to Supe or Barranca and then find another combi to Casma. A good place to start would be to check with are Turismo Barranca and Turismo Paramonga, which also leave from the Terminal Terrestre Plaza Norte.
To get back to Lima, you can go to the office of Erick El Rojo on the main road entering Casma. We were able to book our bus back at the last minute, as the buses come from further north and pass through the town.
The entrance fee to the ruins of Cerro Sechín cost me S/.5 in 2015, but I have seen the price listed as S/.6 in other locations.
If you get off the bus in Casma, you will need to take a mototaxi to the ruins. This should cost about S/.5. You can try asking the mototaxi to wait for you or return for you at the ruins at a set time. There are several mototaxis that wait for tourists – if it is late in the day, like it was for us, they will probably charge you S/.6.
I’m not sure if the museum offers guided tours or if there are sometime guides lingering around, but there is no signage so it may be nice to try to find someone to give you some background. I had read about Sechín in Hugh Thomson’s A Sacred Landscape so had enough background to understand what I was seeing. Having toured the larger, more popular ruins around Trujillo, I know how much a guide can help shed some light on the excavation and restoration process.
If you read Spanish, Wikipedia, Arqueotur, and Arquelogía del Perú (the most detailed and educational) provide some more information on the ruins, which helped inform my understanding a little more.

[Sechín, Ancash, Peru: January 8, 2015]

December 15, 2014

Huancavelica, Peru: Taking in the City’s Culture, Villa Cariño, and the Tren Macho to Huancayo

Celebrating Huancavelica and the Tren Macho

After immersing myself in the tragic past of Huancavelica by visiting the Santa Barbara mine, it was time for me to get to know modern Huancavelica. Huancavelica is considered one of the poorest regions of Peru, probably due to its reliance on subsistence farming and the continuing depletion of its mercury deposits. However, Huancavelica has a rich connection to its cultural heritage, demonstrated by the art found throughout the city that celebrates its traditional dances and lively religious festivals. Further, Huancavelica’s artisans are some of the most talented in Peru, which has led to the development of artisan collectives to produce and sell its colorful knitted and woven goods both nationally and internationally. I decided to learn more about the city by wandering the streets, visiting the artisan markets, and checking out the attractions favored by locals.

Malecón Santa Rosa; Escalonada or Staircase to the Piscina de San Cristóbal

The city of Huancavelica is divided by the Río Mantaro (Mantaro River) that runs through the center of town. The attractive Malecón Santa Rosa follows the path of the river and brings you to the main bridge that connects the two sides of the city. Crossing the bridge leads you to a steep staircase which climbs directly up to the Piscina de San Cristóbal, thermal baths popular with locals.

Mosaic on the Escalonada of Huancavelica

Views from Huancavelica, Peru — Statues in Huancavelica

This is no ordinary staircase; the escalonada has been thoroughly decorated with stone mosaics, statues, and murals that celebrate the local dances performed at the annual festivals. These performances reenact the complex cultural heritage of contact between the Spanish colonizers and the indigenous population. In a city whose history consists of centuries of forced work in the deadly mine, these dances are particularly powerful.

In the end, I decided not to bathe in the thermal pools, but rather wandered around a bit, taking in the people doing their laundry in the fountains outside. Nearby, there was a building that technically houses an artisan market, part of the Complejo Ecoturístico de San Cristóbal, but it looked fairly empty and abandoned when I wandered around inside, all of the stands closed, probably only staffed during seasons of high tourism.

Old Map of Huancavelica in the Museo Regional

After visiting San Cristóbal, I headed back to the center of town to check out the Museo Regional Daniel Hernández Morillo located near the Plaza de Armas. While this museum is very small, it gives you a sense of the ancestral heritage of Huancavelica. I was more interested in the older maps on the wall near the entrance, which showed the layout of the mountain town, along with some quotations commemorating the tragedies suffered by the people of Huancavelica in the Mina de la Muerte (Mine of Death). There is also a small bookstore, where I purchased a book of traditional folk tales from the region.

Next, I stopped by Qampaq Arte’s boutique, located at Jr. Arica 230. This small store has some of the highest quality alpaca goods you can find in Huancavelica, which are displayed like the pieces of art they actually are. Qampaq Arte is the storefront for the fair trade handmade goods produced by their artisan collective. Most of the artisans live in the communities around Huancavelica, particularly Yauli. What is unique about Qampaq Arte is that they ask the artisans to produce for the international market, using luxurious alpaca wool rather than the more common acrylic blend, and adapting the local style to be more wearable outside of cultural events. I highly suggest stopping by their store, if only to admire the talent of their artisans.

Train Station in Huancavelica, Peru

Next, I walked along the main commercial stretch of Av. Manchego Muñoz to the train station. In addition to its artesanía and traditional dances, Huancavelica is known for the Tren Macho which runs between Huancayo and Huancavelica.

Unlike the train that runs between Cuzco and Agua Calientes, the Tren Macho is still an affordable passenger train and the safest, most interesting way to travel between the two cities. The train runs every other day, and I really wanted to ride it. I bought my ticket for the next day, leaving bright and early at 6:30AM.

After the train station, I wandered over the Plaza Ramón Castilla to see the Iglesia Santa Ana, the first church constructed in Huancavelica. As you can see, this church has a lot in common with the church in Santa Barbara. This plaza is definitely where the locals hang out and enjoy the sunshine. Located beneath the plaza is an underground market catering to locals with several stands selling traditional costumes for festivals as well as shawls and other clothing used by the women of Huancavelica on a daily basis.

Views from Villa Cariño, Huancavelica, Peru

From Plaza Ramón Castilla, I continued on to Villa Cariño and Seccsechaca, located on the outskirts of the city. Villa Cariño hosts an outdoor park with more thermal baths. To get there, you follow the train tracks across the river and then walk along well-worn paths and staircases through boulders and large rocks.

Views from Villa Cariño, Huancavelica, Peru

As I was wandering along the rocky paths, I looked out over the more residential part of town, with the modern, nondescript brick constructions common throughout Peru. Locals passed me on the paths, heading to and from the center of town. I enjoyed the walk, my relative solitude, and the gorgeous views.

However, there were no signs marking the way, I couldn’t spot the thermal baths through the rocks, and eventually I felt a little uncomfortable climbing around on my own with my fancy camera. In the end, I never made it to Seccsachaca, where I could have visited the Baños del Inca and Tres Boas (which you can see at the end of this blog post).

Views Along the Train Tracks of the Tren Macho, Huancavelica, Peru

I retraced my steps along the train tracks that I would be traveling along the next morning and headed back into town.

Views of Huancavelica from Above the River

I decided to take another route back into town, following a different road which ran parallel to the river and the train tracks. This gave me more views of the residential part of town, whose buildings reminded me just a little bit of Huaycán.

Look Out for the Train Crossing, Huancavelica, Peru

Tourism Generates Development: Treat the Tourist Well, He is Your Friend

On the way, I spotted this mural painted by Dircetur, the regional tourism office, encouraging the people of Huancavelica to embrace tourism. Huancavelica does not receive a lot of tourists and I found that the locals were generally disinterested in my presence, which I honestly didn’t mind too much. I think this is why some travelers are drawn to the small cities of central Peru; it feels a little more authentic to be ignored rather than courted.

Commercial Street in Huancavelica, Peru

Back in the center of town, I took advantage of the last of the daylight hours to go shopping for the gorgeous artesanía I’d come there for. I’d read that the most talented artisans travel from their villages and sell their handknit gloves, hats, and scarves along Av. Manchego Muñoz, near the Plaza de Armas, under the blue Municipal building (Municipio). Just walk towards the train station from the Plaza de Armas and you’ll spot the stands selling machine knit, generic goods. The women from the surrounding villages, such as Yauli, sit on the ground on a tarp spread with their handknit masterpieces, selling at prices that are so low that it actually hurts my heart. Many of these women sell items knit from alpaca, thanks to the encouragement of fair trade organizations that have helped them trust in the quality of their art. I bought several pairs of gloves, leg warmers, and arm warmers knit in the colorful traditional style, like you see here.

Further down Av. Manchego Muñoz at No. 420 is the storefront of another artisan group, Pacha Artesanas. I recognized their shawls and asked if they had shown their knitted goods in Lima at the De Nuestras Manos market. Of course, they had been there, and they also travel to the United States on occasion for expositions of Latin American artwork. I highly suggest looking for this shop; be sure to ask which goods are locally produced. (You can see the legwarmers I bought from a woman from Yauli and a hat I purchased from Pacha Artesanas in the photo of me at Boston Bike Party at the bottom of this post.)

On this particular day, all of Huancavelica was out in the main plaza to celebrate the life of their Monseñor, who had recently passed away. Like many Andean cities, Huancavelica is a deeply religious place and the entire town shut down with parades and musical performances honoring this man.

By the end of my third day in Huancavelica, I felt like I had experienced the best of Huancavelica and was eager to continue on to Huancayo, just in time for my birthday.

Train Station in Huancavelica, Peru

I left La Portada early in the morning to walk over to the train station for the 6:30 departure. At this altitude, carrying my heavy pack uphill was a challenge, so I gave myself extra time! I found my seat in the reserved buffet car, across from a friendly young medical student who attended university in Huancayo. She encouraged me to try the warm drink being sold by enterprising women wandering the aisles, a mixture of apple juice cooked with quinoa. Seriously delicious.